Winter Trek to the Valley of the Five Polish Lakes and Zawrat Pass in the Tatra Mountains

There are a few places in the Tatra Mountains that are truly iconic. Places that need no introduction, yet every mountain lover eagerly returns to them. This group undoubtedly includes the breathtaking, dreamlike Valley of the Five Polish Lakes (Dolina Pięciu Stawów Polskich) and the magical Zawrat pass. Today, I invite you on a journey through these symbolic landscapes, where many of you have likely left a piece of your heart.

Table of Contents

1. Five Lakes Valley in Winter – Practical Information
2. Starting from Palenica Białczańska (approx. 990 m a.s.l.)
3. Trekking through the Roztoka Valley
4. Winter Ascent to the Mountain Hut
5. Walking Through the Winter Valley
6. The Final Approach to Zawrat in Winter
7. Zawrat Pass in Winter
8. Trip Map
9. Bibliography

Five Lakes Valley in Winter – Practical Information

• The Valley of the Five Polish Lakes is among the most popular destinations in the Polish Tatras. The valley has a distinct post-glacial character and is primarily known for its charming lakes: Wielki Staw, Czarny Staw, Mały Staw, Przedni Staw, and Zadni Staw. Wielki Staw Polski is the largest lake in the Tatras (30 hectares) and the third deepest lake in Poland (80 m).
• The valley is home to the highest mountain hut in Poland (1,671 m a.s.l.). Until recently, it was the last shelter in the Tatras that allowed “floor sleeping” when all beds were taken (the PTTK association introduced a general ban on this practice in September 2025).
• Hikers heading to the valley usually start their trip at Palenica Białczańska. You can get there by car or by local buses running from Zakopane. There is a large parking lot at Palenica Białczańska managed by the National Park (TPN), for which you must purchase tickets online at this link. If you are visiting during peak season or holidays, don’t wait until the last minute to book!
• The trail from Palenica Białczańska to the mountain hut involves a fairly steep ascent; in winter conditions, do not attempt this without crampons or microspikes!
• The approach to the Zawrat pass (2,158 m a.s.l.) through the Five Lakes Valley is relatively gentle and lacks technical difficulties, making it a great choice for fit individuals starting their winter Tatra adventure. However, keep in mind that due to local topography, snow cover here is usually much deeper than in other parts of the Tatras. According to classic guidebooks, snow can persist here for up to 200 days a year (though climate change is rapidly making this data obsolete).
• Zawrat is the starting point of the most difficult marked hiking trail in Poland – the famous Orla Perć (Eagle’s Path). You can reach the pass from either the Five Lakes Valley or Gąsienicowa Valley. Be warned: the latter option is significantly more demanding both physically and technically.
• In winter, the trail to the Five Lakes Valley can be threatened by avalanches sliding from the Wołoszyn slopes. For your safety, choose a different destination when avalanche risk is high. Check the current avalanche report here.

Starting from Palenica Białczańska (approx. 990 m a.s.l.)

For a long time, I had been planning a winter trip that would capture the true essence of the High Tatras. When the opportunity finally arose, there was only one choice: the Valley of the Five Polish Lakes. Why there? Because the atmosphere of “Piątka” (The Five) is always captivating—even when the forecast predicts a complete whiteout and visibility is close to zero.

While the end of December 2024 was unusually warm and spring-like in the Tatras, early January greets us with a truly winter aura. The roads are slippery, ABS systems are working hard, and plenty of fresh snow lies on the Oswald Balzer Road. By the time I pull into the parking lot at Palenica Białczańska (approx. 990 m a.s.l.) around 7:40 AM, I feel like the hardest part of the trip—the drive—is already behind me :P.

After leaving the parking lot, I enter the most popular hiking trail in the country—the red-marked asphalt road to Morskie Oko. After about three kilometers of walking, I reach the Mickiewicz Waterfalls (Wodogrzmoty Mickiewicza), famous cascades on the Roztoka stream. I stop to admire the only clearly visible part—the Middle Fall. The other two are hidden: the Upper Fall is deep in the forest, and the Lower Fall is beneath the bridge. The Tatra Society named the falls after the poet Adam Mickiewicz in 1891 to commemorate the transfer of his remains to Krakow—a move intended to boost national spirit during the partitions of Poland. Interestingly, while Mickiewicz described nature beautifully, he never actually visited the Tatras himself.

Trekking through the Roztoka Valley

After the waterfalls, I turn left onto the green trail and enter the dense forest. I am now walking along the floor of the Roztoka Valley, which is essentially the lower extension of the Five Lakes Valley. The green trail winds through fairy-tale snowy trees along the Roztoka stream. The path is typical for a valley: slightly steeper at the very beginning, but leveling out to a gentle and steady climb further on.

After just fifteen minutes of walking, the forest thins out, revealing views of the peaks surrounding the valley. To the left, a fragment of the Opalony Wierch ridge looms with the Orla Ściana and, further on, the characteristic Świstowa Czuba. To the right lies the Wołoszyn ridge. Since the summit is shrouded in thick fog today, I am left with a view of its monumental slopes. Notably, the forest here is quite devastated, largely due to frequent avalanches coming down those very slopes.

Winter Ascent to the Mountain Hut

At an altitude of about 1,370 m a.s.l., seven kilometers from the Palenica Białczańska parking lot, the forest gives way to dwarf pine (kosówka), and the climb becomes significantly steeper. After another few hundred meters, at 1,430 m a.s.l., I reach a trail junction. In summer, you can reach the hut in two ways: the green trail past the Siklawa waterfall or the steeper but shorter black trail. Due to high avalanche risk on the green trail, the latter is the standard winter route. I take the narrow, steep black trail, which zigzags up through the dwarf pines. This section overcomes the rocky “step” separating the lower Roztoka Valley from the upper Five Lakes Valley. It’s the most physically demanding part of the trip: an elevation gain of 240 meters over a distance of just 800 meters. Crampons are mandatory here!

Finding the right path isn’t difficult today—popularity means the track is well-trodden. The trail is also marked with tall white poles. Since it’s narrow, the only slight issue is overtaking slower hikers. Generally, the steep section passes intensely but satisfyingly. I focus entirely on gaining altitude, as the fog hides all the surrounding peaks for now.

At about 1,610 m a.s.l., I encounter the difference between the summer and winter black trails. The summer version goes around Niżna Kopa to the right; the winter version goes to the left. This adjustment also minimizes exposure to potential avalanches from Niżna Kopa. I take the winter variant, climbing the final 60 meters of elevation up a steep slope. I then join the blue trail. The tracks lead across a portion of the frozen Przedni Staw Polski directly to the primary goal—the beloved Valley of the Five Polish Lakes mountain hut. I step into the warm hallway around 10:30 AM.

Walking Through the Winter Valley

Inside the hut, I find a spot at a wooden table, pull out food from my backpack, and weigh my options. The weather is worsening, and the avalanche risk has risen from level 1 to level 2. I wait, but conditions show no signs of improvement. Finally, the decision is made: I’ll walk further up the valley, and if the weather allows, I’ll try for Zawrat. Off I go! I leave the hut around 11:20 AM.

I am now following the blue trail, skirting the shores of Przedni Staw and then Wielki Staw Polski. Initially, the path is very gentle—only 130 meters of elevation gain over the first two kilometers. It gets harder at 1,800 m a.s.l. when I start the steep climb up the slopes of Kołowa Czuba. Here, I run into a winter skills course—it looks like they are practicing ice axe arrests. Speaking of ice axes, this is where I decide to take mine out. It might not be strictly necessary here, but it certainly doesn’t hurt. I gain 170 meters over a 600-meter stretch, bringing me closer to the goal.

The Final Approach to Zawrat in Winter

Visibility remains poor but is noticeably better than when I left the hut. Who knows? Maybe I’ll get a full view of the valley after all. I navigate the rocky terrain at the base of Kołowa Czuba, bypass the summit to the left, and begin the final stretch to Zawrat pass. The blue trail now runs along a relatively gentle slope—first of Kołowa Czuba, then Mały Kozi Wierch. Below lies the upper part of the valley—the Dolinka pod Kołem with Zadni Staw, the highest lake in Poland.

The last kilometer to Zawrat isn’t overly steep, with less than 200 meters of elevation gain remaining. There are no technical obstacles or significant exposure (as a warning to less experienced hikers: it is the complete opposite when approaching Zawrat from the other side, Gąsienicowa Valley). In summer, you can practically run up this blue trail. In winter, the pace is obviously slower due to trudging through snow and navigating passing spots with other hikers.

Zawrat Pass in Winter

I reach Zawrat around 1:40 PM. In summer, the pass is one of the most crowded spots in the Tatras, but in winter, I have it all to myself for a moment. It’s a profound feeling to stand at 2,000 meters in true winter conditions. Mother Nature seems to appreciate the effort—the fog begins to lift, revealing the surrounding peaks. The panorama from Zawrat is considered one of the most beautiful in the Polish Tatras. In the foreground, you see Hladký štít, Szpiglasowy Wierch, and Miedziane. Further back, from right to left: Kriváň, the Hrubý vrch and Štrbský štít ridge, Kôprovský štít, the Mięguszowiecki peaks, the twin-peaked Vysoká, Rysy, Gerlachovský štít (the King of the Tatras), and even Východná Vysoká.

I spend about fifteen minutes at the pass before starting the descent back into the valley. And then? Magic happens. The fog disappears completely, unveiling a stunning panoramic view of the entire valley and its surrounding peaks. It’s breathtaking! This place looks entirely different than it did two hours ago. I’m especially struck by the majestic wall of Kozi Wierch, bathed in the light of the sinking sun. I reach the hut around 3:30 PM, filled with awe, gratitude, and complete satisfaction. And the best part—the legendary apple pie (szarlotka) at the hut—is still ahead :P.

The return journey is finished after dark under a sky full of Tatra stars. I run into a small challenge in the forest when my headlamp decides to quit. I stay close to other hikers for a while, sharing their light. At one point, a stranger strikes up a conversation and kindly offers to lend me spare batteries. We finish the hike together, swapping mountain goals and experiences. It turns out this silent hero is planning to climb Rysy tomorrow! If you’re reading this—I hope everything went well. Thanks for the batteries! In an age of indifference, such a small act of kindness means a lot. After all… isn’t it true that in the mountains, we are all the best versions of ourselves?

Trip date: January 4, 2025

Trip statistics: 24 km, 1,280 meters elevation gain

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Trip Map

Bibliography

• Nyka J., Nyczanka M., Tatry Polskie, 22nd Edition, Latchorzew 2020.