Triglav (2,864 m a.s.l.) is the highest peak in Slovenia and the entire Julian Alps range. The mountain makes a grand impression due to its imposing, majestic silhouette. Several manageable via ferratas lead to the summit, making Triglav widely accessible for mountaineers. I had the good fortune to visit the Roof of Slovenia on a sunny day in August 2024. I warmly invite you to this trip report of a loop starting from the Aljažev dom parking lot, during which we ascended via the Luknja pass variant and descended via the route by the Triglavski dom na Kredarici mountain hut.
Table of Contents
- Triglav – General Information
- Planica – Starting the Day with a ski flying hill
- Triglav – Starting the Trip from Aljažev dom
- Triglav – Route Through the Vrata Valley to Luknja Pass
- Ferrata Bambergova pot [C]
- Triglav – Climbing Finale Through the Stone Desert
- Triglav – The Summit
- Triglav – Descent via the Ridge Ferrata [A]
- Ferrata Tominškova pot [A/B]
- Trip Map
Triglav – General Information
- Triglav (2,864 m a.s.l.) is the highest peak in Slovenia and the entire Julian Alps, which are part of the Southern Limestone Alps. For this reason, the summit is included in the Crown of Europe.
- The Triglav massif features an exceptionally dense network of hiking trails of varying difficulty levels. The most common starting point for trips to the Roof of Slovenia is the Aljažev dom hut in the Vrata valley (near the town of Mojstrana). This is where three basic variants for summiting Triglav begin. The first involves an ascent via the very accessible Tominškova pot ferrata (difficulty A/B) to an altitude of approx. 2,100 m a.s.l., a further approach to the Triglavski dom hut, and continuing the trip along an easy ridge section through the summit of Mali Triglav. This variant will be described in this post as the descent route. The second method involves an approach via the equally easy Pot čez Prag ferrata (A/B). However, while Tominškova pot veers into the forest just a few minutes after leaving the hut, Pot čez Prag begins after walking about two kilometers along the trail running through the floor of the Vrata valley.
- The third variant, in my opinion the most interesting, involves an approach along the trail in the Vrata valley to the Luknja pass, and then continuing the trip via the Pot čez Plemenice ferrata (also known as Bambergova pot), whose difficulties are rated C/D. In this way, we enjoy a bit of climbing, avoid the largest crowds, and get a capital view of the famous North Face of Triglav. This variant will be described in this post as the ascent route.
- Triglav is a symbolic mountain for Slovenians, inseparably linked to the creation of their national identity. The silhouette of the mountain is visible on the Slovenian flag and coat of arms. The name of the peak patronizes a large number of associations, sports clubs, companies, restaurants, and accommodation centers… In short—it is everywhere.
- The first ascent of the summit was made by a group of local residents in 1778. Triglav gained tourist importance in the 19th century due to the growing interest in mountain tourism across Europe and the activities of priest Jakob Aljaž. He became famous mainly for buying the summit of Triglav in 1895 and erecting a tin tower on it. The structure stands there to this day and is one of the main symbols of the Roof of Slovenia.
- The name Triglav comes from the fact that from most observation points in the Upper Carniola region, it looks as if it has three peaks. Contrary to many romantic theories, the name probably does not come from the name of the Slavic god Trojan.
Planica – Starting the Day with a ski flying hill
Today begins early in the morning, waking up at the charming Natura Eco Camp in Kranjska Gora. We hastily eat breakfast, pack the tent into the car, and head towards the nearby town of Planica. As a child, I was a huge fan of ski jumping, so I cannot imagine leaving Slovenia without seeing this legendary facility. Letalnica in Planica is one of the largest hills in the world with an HS point at 240 meters, a construction point at 200 meters, and a record of as much as 254.5 m. It is primarily known for being the final stop of the World Cup every year, where the winner of the general classification receives the coveted Crystal Globe.
The ski flying hill makes a huge impression on me. Powerful, imposing, surrounded by majestic mountains… Unfortunately, we don’t have much time for a longer tour today: we still have the ascent of Triglav ahead of us and a drive to another part of Slovenia for the night. By the way, according to the original plans, we were supposed to visit Planica yesterday. However, we underestimated the length and difficulty of the trekking to Prisojnik and Razor. Well, it happens to the best of us (and let’s face it, we aren’t among the best just yet! :D).
From Planica, we head east, driving for 20 kilometers along the charming road No. 201. This leads us to the village of Mojstrana, where we turn right onto the asphalt road running through the bottom of the Vrata valley.
Triglav – Starting the Trip from Aljažev dom
After about 10 kilometers, we reach a large tourist parking lot at the end of the road. The fee for the whole day is… 20 Euros. No way, there must be a better alternative! And indeed, literally a kilometer from the parking lot, we find a completely legal lay-by where the car can be left entirely for free. The area is quite wide, yet only one car is parked there… It seems almost inconceivable to us that so many people prefer to pay 20 Euros rather than walk an extra kilometer on flat terrain.
In this way, around 8:30 AM, we begin our trek to Triglav! We quickly cover the section on the asphalt road and after a dozen minutes, we are back at the parking lot near the Aljažev dom v Vratih (1,015 m a.s.l.) hut. The facility is named after priest Jakob Aljaž, the initiator of this place mentioned earlier. Today, the hut is a good starting base not only for the famous Triglav but also for Slovenia’s second-highest peak, Škrlatica (2,740 m a.s.l.).
Triglav – Route Through the Vrata Valley to Luknja Pass
From the hut, we set off on the main hiking trail along the floor of the Vrata valley. From the very beginning, we are accompanied by incredible views of the surrounding limestone giants. The path is wide and well-paved. After walking about half a kilometer from Aljažev dom, we arrive at a characteristic monument in the shape of a giant climbing carabiner. It commemorates Slovenian partisans who died during World War II resisting Italian-German occupation. Here, Tominškova pot branches off to the left, which is our planned return route.
So, we keep going. The Vrata valley is simply beautiful: a massive rock wall looms ahead of us, and everything around is incredibly green. We pass the first trail junction about a kilometer from the carabiner monument. In this case, confusing the variants carries no consequences, as both paths lead to the Luknja pass. The first involves another kilometer of walking along the floor of the Vrata valley, while the second starts a much more intense ascent past the small Luknja bivouac. In terms of time and distance, both versions are roughly the same, so we pick the first one somewhat at random.
The variant we chose involves another kilometer of flat walking through the Vrata valley before reaching another junction. This time, a mistake would have more significant consequences: our trail continues to the Luknja pass, while the right turn is none other than the start of the Pot čez Prag ferrata. Why do I keep using “right” and “left”? Because in Slovenia, multi-colored trail markings are not used. All routes are marked the same way: with a white-and-red circle or, especially at junctions, with red inscriptions.
After the Pot čez Prag ferrata branches off (roughly 2 kilometers from the hut), the incline finally begins to increase significantly. The ascent becomes quite physically demanding, especially as it’s already 10:00 AM and the August sun is starting to operate with double strength. The path on this section is much narrower but still comfortable and well-marked. During two kilometers of ascent, we gain as much as 600 meters in altitude. Most of the way passes surrounded by lush vegetation, with only the last fragment crossing a stone gully. The scree consists of countless tiny pebbles, so it can be a bit loose in places (generally, however, it’s much easier to gain height in such terrain than to lose it).
We reach the Luknja (1,766 m a.s.l.) pass at 10:30 AM, about two hours after leaving the car. We take a short break here for a second breakfast, admiring the views stretching out on both sides. In this part of the Julian Alps, I am personally most enchanted by the omnipresent greenery. We are at a high altitude, and yet there is plenty of grass, moss, and even small shrubs around.
Ferrata Bambergova pot [C]
From the Luknja pass, we take the Pot čez Plemenice trail, which hosts the Bambergova pot ferrata. The name of the iron path refers to the origin of the German alpinists who dominated the exploration of the Triglav massif in the early days. The ferrata begins at an altitude of approx. 1,800 m a.s.l., and its difficulties are rated C (in some guides, B/C). Thus, of all the marked routes leading to Triglav, Bambergova pot is the most difficult.
The most demanding part is the first section of the ferrata, running through a sizeable limestone rock. I try to find my own holds instead of just pulling myself up on the iron cable. This goal is largely achieved. I would rate the climbing here as relatively simple but very pleasant and satisfying. The problem is that clearing the first approx. 100-meter wall takes us about 20 minutes. Then, for about an hour, we walk a normal path, only occasionally requiring the use of hands. However, the section is quite demanding due to the significant incline and the Balkan sun standing at its zenith. What impresses me most, though, is that we are clearly above the 2,000 m a.s.l. mark, yet it is still very green around! And the views of the surrounding peaks? Divine!
At an altitude of approx. 2,200 m a.s.l., we are reminded that we are still on a ferrata. We have to clear the second of the sections protected by an iron cable – a dozen-meter wall with a technical chimney. Incidentally, ferratas are always given a general rating based on the most difficult spot. Although it’s hard to find any specific topo for Bambergova pot online, it seems this chimney is the “C” moment.
After overcoming the rock wall, we emerge onto the ridge, checking in at the summit of Plemenice (2,372 m a.s.l.), and a moment later also at the nearby peak of Sfinga (2,384 m a.s.l.). It’s 12:30 PM on the clock, meaning the approach from the Luknja pass took us about two hours. In that time, we covered about one and a half kilometers and gained 600 meters in altitude. From the summit of Sfinga, we have the chance to admire what is probably the most beautiful panorama of the day. The massive North Face of Triglav, one of the most powerful rock walls in Europe, is visible here in its full glory. The wall has over 1,000 meters of relative height, hundreds of climbing routes have been mapped on it, and in the past, it played a key role in the development of Slovenian alpinism. Watching this limestone colossus live is a truly great pleasure.
Triglav – Climbing Finale Through the Stone Desert
Shortly after the summit of Sfinga, the landscape begins to change significantly. The green grasses disappear, giving way to a massive stone desert. This means we are slowly entering the areas where the Triglav glacier was located until quite recently. At the end of the 19th century, it stretched over 40 hectares; in 1946 – 15 hectares; and in 2011 – from 1 to 3 hectares, depending on the season. The remains of the eternal ice officially ceased to be called a glacier in 2019. The approximately one-kilometer fragment of the trail through the area of the former glacier makes a rather depressing impression on me. Everything here seems so… empty, sun-scorched, dead. The trail, however, remains comfortable and clearly visible throughout.
At an altitude of 2,600 m a.s.l., we approach a rock wall again. A few minutes of pleasant climbing and we arrive at the narrow Triglavska škrbina (2,655 m a.s.l.) pass. The final 400 meters of distance and 200 meters of altitude difference are covered by a route called Gorjanska pot. This section is a standard stone approach. It is steep here, but without any technical difficulties.
Triglav – The Summit
In this way, at 2:10 PM, we triumphantly reach Triglav (2,864 m a.s.l.), the highest peak in Slovenia and the Julian Alps. The entire endeavor takes us about 5.5 hours. At the top, we realize that Triglav is indeed a very popular mountain, with the caveat that the vast majority of tourists climb it using the easier variants. This gives us another advantage of the route through the Luknja pass: it allows you to reach the Roof of Slovenia without the wearying crowds. The views from Triglav are, of course, phenomenal. Dozens of peaks of the Julian Alps, as well as the nearby Karawanke and Kamnik-Savinja Alps, are clearly visible. Alpine Choughs, characteristic mountain birds I previously saw on Hoher Dachstein, fly around the hikers. In the central point of the summit stands the famous tin mountain shelter, placed there in 1895 by the aforementioned priest Jakob Aljaž.
We take a well-deserved, longer break at the summit. I pay special attention to proper hydration today. Remembering yesterday’s dehydration on Prisojnik, I took as much as four liters of fluids to Triglav. By the way, despite the threat of dehydration, escaping to the high mountains still seems to me one of the best ways to avoid the August heat. While temperatures in the valleys reach 40 degrees, we can enjoy refreshing coolness and a pleasant breeze at the summit of Triglav.
Triglav – Descent via the Ridge Ferrata [A]
Fed and rested, we decide to descend towards the Triglavski dom na Kredarici (approx. 2,500 m a.s.l.) hut. The section is about a kilometer long and runs along an accessible ridge section through the summit of Mali Triglav (2,725 m a.s.l.). Practically along its entire length, the path is secured with an easy ferrata of difficulty A. However, since the trail is devoid of any technical difficulties, most tourists do not use safety equipment.
To be honest, the descent from Triglav is the weakest part of today’s trekking. The trail is incredibly crowded, which results in massive bottlenecks. But what can you do? Where possible, we pass slower-moving tourists. Where it is not possible, we wait patiently. The largest traffic jams occur at the summit of Mali Triglav, but the necessity of waiting is somewhat compensated by the beautiful views stretching out from there.
In this way, around 3:40 PM, we reach the Ledeniški preval (2,484 m a.s.l.) pass. From this point, we have a good view of a small fragment of the remains of the once-mighty Triglav glacier. The Triglavski dom hut is located near the pass. Since we still have plenty of fluids and took a break recently, we do not stop here and continue our descent.
Below the pass, there is still a short section secured with a ferrata, but after that, it’s just a somewhat monotonous descent leading through the stony floor of the post-glacial cirque. We walk through raw terrain, steadily losing altitude by crossing successive rock steps. The path momentarily becomes less distinct, requiring more attention to the trail markings. At one point, the descent becomes more “alerting.” This happens when we enter a section on a steep, scree-covered slope. We maintain increased concentration, not wanting to painfully slide on the multitude of small stones.
Ferrata Tominškova pot [A/B]
About 40 minutes after leaving the pass, tufts of grass and individual shrubs begin to break through the rocks. At an altitude of approx. 2,100 m a.s.l., we begin the descent via the Tominškova pot ferrata with a difficulty level rated A/B (in some guides, you may find a B/C or even C rating, but in my opinion, it is definitely overrated). The ferrata traverses a stone wall, steadily descending back towards the Vrata valley. At times, the route is quite exposed, but generally, it does not present major technical problems. For less experienced hikers, some difficulties may arise from the fact that not every spot requiring the use of hands is secured with an iron cable here. However, the strength of the ferrata lies in its scenic values—the panorama stretching from here to the peaks surrounding the Vrata valley is simply phenomenal.
At an altitude of approx. 1,500 m a.s.l., the iron cable disappears, and the greenery around us becomes increasingly intense. We now descend a steep but comfortable and well-paved path. When the terrain becomes completely simple, we decide to cover the last few kilometers by running. The idea turns out to be a bullseye! Not only is mountain running incredibly enjoyable, but it also allows us to quickly cover the less spectacular forest sections.
In this way, around 6:00 PM, we check in again at the monument in the shape of a large carabiner. At 6:30 PM, we reach the lay-by where we left the car. The entire expedition to Triglav thus takes us 10 hours.
The trip to Triglav turned out to be one of the strongest mountain highlights of 2024. Reaching the mountain gave us a lot of satisfaction, filled us with good energy, and in many parts – sincerely delighted us. I heartily recommend it!
Date of the trip: August 12, 2024
Trip statistics: 16.5 km, 2,100 meters of altitude difference
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