The Dolomites are one of the most popular Alpine ranges, known primarily for their fantastic rock formations, intensely green landscapes, and a vast selection of all kinds of via ferratas. The highest part of these mountains is the Marmolada massif, whose highest peak – Punta Penia – rises to an altitude of 3,343 m a.s.l. It is no wonder that conquering this majestic summit is considered a mandatory point of any trip to the Dolomites. In this post, I will describe the most popular way to reach Punta Penia, namely the ascent from the north, starting from the parking lot at Lago di Fedaia. Welcome to the trip report!
TABLE OF CONTENTS:
- Punta Penia, Marmolada – basic information
- Lago di Fedaia – Forcella Col de Bous
- Rifugio Capanna al Ghiacciaio – the ghost hut
- From Forcella Col de Bous to the start of the ferrata
- Via ferrata della Marmolada [B]
- Punta Penia summit (3,343 m a.s.l.) and the mountain hut in the sky
- Descent from Punta Penia
- Trip map
Punta Penia, Marmolada – basic information
- Punta Penia (3,343 m a.s.l.) is the highest peak in the Dolomites.
- The main starting point for trips to Punta Penia is the mountain lodge Rifugio Cima Undici, located by Lake Lago di Fedaia (approx. 2,100 m a.s.l.), where a large parking lot is situated. The lodge is about 12 km from the famous year-round resort of Canazei and about 50 km from Cortina d’Ampezzo.
- The classic route involves reaching the summit from the north via the Forcella Marmolada pass (2,885 m a.s.l.). This variant requires crossing a small ice field. During my trip [mid-August], the snow was already gone, but the terrain remained very slippery and heavily frozen. From an altitude of about 2,850 m a.s.l., the route is protected by an easy ridge ferrata, with difficulties reaching level B (on a scale from A to F).
- Until quite recently, a common way to climb the peak was the route through the only glacier in the Dolomites – the Marmolada Glacier, stretching across the northern slopes of Punta Penia. The starting point for such trips was the Rifugio Capanna al Ghiacciaio lodge, located at 2,626 m a.s.l. Everything changed on July 3, 2022, when, due to exceptionally high temperatures, a massive serac collapse occurred. Eleven people died in the disaster, and masses of ice devastated the ski lift located below the glacier. The lodge survived, but today it stands abandoned and deteriorating.
- By the way, the Marmolada Glacier has been shrinking for a long time and will most likely disappear completely by 2050. This is the result of rapid climate change, which is ruthless for “eternal” ice at relatively low altitudes. Within our lifetime, not only the Marmolada will disappear, but also the Pyrenean Aneto or the Austrian Dachstein.
- There is also a trail leading to the Forcella Marmolada pass from the south, part of the long-distance Alta Via 2, also protected by a ferrata. Otherwise, all other variants from this side require multi-pitch climbing up the massive 800-meter wall.
- At the top of Punta Penia, there is a small mountain shelter – Capanna Punta Penia – providing meals, drinks, and overnight accommodation.
- Punta Penia is considered a very popular peak, but during our August visit, it was very uncrowded both in the parking lot and on the trail (and if we did encounter anyone, they were most often Poles).
- Since 2009, the Dolomites have been on the UNESCO World Heritage List.
- The first documented ascent of Punta Penia was made by the Viennese Paul Grohmann along with Italian guides on September 28, 1864. The mountaineers reached the summit from the north. The pioneering conquest of the extremely difficult south face, however, had to wait until 1901, when a team led by Michele Bettega and Bortolo Zagonel, with English client Beatrice Tomasson, achieved the feat.
- During World War I, Marmolada witnessed battles fought as part of the so-called Italian Front. Military operations in this area began in 1916 when the Austrians took up defensive positions on the northern slopes of the massif. The imperial forces even dug a literal labyrinth of tunnels in the glacier, which they used as communication channels, shelters, and warehouses. The Italians had a significant advantage in this sector, so the Austrians focused primarily on defensive actions. They had to defend themselves not only against enemy artillery but also against the destructive forces of nature. December 13, 1916, went down in history when as many as 300 Austro-Hungarian soldiers died in a massive avalanche. Senseless artillery fire in the Marmolada massif continued until October 1917, when the Italians were forced to leave their positions after the Austrians broke through the front in the Battle of Caporetto. However, since the overall outcome of the war was unfavorable for the Central Powers, the Dolomites fell to Italy.
Lago di Fedaia – Forcella Col de Bous
It is a quarter to 8 AM when we arrive at the large parking lot by the mountain lodge Rifugio Cima Undici (approx. 2,100 m a.s.l.). A beautiful view unfolds from here over the artificial lake Lago di Fedaia, held back by a dam we had the opportunity to drive across just a few minutes earlier. From the parking lot, we take hiking trail no. 606, which is part of the long-distance Alta Via 2 route. Right from the start, the ascent gives us a tough time – the path is very steep and laborious. We start quite slowly, sluggishly forcing our un-warmed limbs into significant effort. As a consolation, as we gain elevation, an increasingly magnificent panorama of Lago di Fedaia and the nearby Mesola peak (2,727 m a.s.l.) opens up behind us.
In this way, over a distance of less than 1.5 kilometers, we cover 340 meters of elevation gain and check in at the Forcella Col del Bous pass (2,438 m a.s.l.), which offers high scenic value. Looking south, the rocky Col De Bousc peak (2,491 m a.s.l.) can be observed in its full glory, at the foot of which there is even a small shelter and an abandoned gallery. In the background is Lake Lago di Fedaia and the aforementioned Mesola massif. Above all, however, the Forcella Col de Bous pass is an excellent viewpoint of the northern slopes of Punta Penia and the raw body of the Marmolada Glacier. There is no point in denying that the “eternal” ice does not look particularly impressive. It is visible to the naked eye that the glacier here is already in the final phase of its existence and will likely disappear completely within our lifetime.
Rifugio Capanna al Ghiacciaio – the ghost hut
At the Forcella Col de Bous pass, we say goodbye to Ada, who doesn’t feel that her condition today justifies a decision to climb the highest peak in the Dolomites. It’s not even about the difficulty itself, but the need to maintain an above-average pace. All forecasts predict afternoon rain and storms, and we want to avoid such adventures at all costs. Nevertheless, Ada remains active and hikes up to the nearby Rifugio Capanna al Ghiacciaio (2,700 m a.s.l.). I humbly admit that we didn’t check the situation thoroughly, wrongly assuming that since the lodge is marked on the map, it must be open. What a surprise it was for Ada when, instead of the cheerful bustle of a mountain hut, she encountered an abandoned, deteriorating building with devastated toilets and utility rooms. The atmosphere of gloom was deepened by elements of the old ski lift scattered throughout the area and the raw, rocky surroundings. An aura of anxiety and a tangible, piercing silence hung in the air. It’s one of those moments when a person realizes that they will never win against the elements.
From Forcella Col de Bous to the start of the ferrata
Hiking trail no. 606 runs from the Forcella Col de Bous pass to the aforementioned ruined upper chairlift station. Then, the route turns right and, traversing the steep slope, descends… back to an altitude of 2,500 m a.s.l. The trail is laid out so that the hiker makes a sort of triangle, adding kilometers and elevation gain in a somewhat senseless way. Fortunately, a marked alternative branches off from Forcella Col de Bous, acting as a link between the pass and trail no. 606, bypassing the closed lodge. This variant is 600 meters long and involves an easy traverse of a fragment of the northern slope.
In this way, a dozen or so minutes after leaving Forcella Col de Bous, we are back on trail no. 606. After another 500-meter traverse, we begin a more ambitious climb. A segment of tedious ascent on loose, scree terrain awaits us. The surroundings become extremely raw and monotonous: we are surrounded on all sides by a vast stone desert. Additionally, our path is very poorly visible, which means we don’t always choose the most optimal variants.
The most difficult part of today’s trip begins at an altitude of approx. 2,700 m a.s.l. Specifically, it involves crossing a shaded area marked in white on most maps. Since we were unable to determine before the trip whether snow still lingered here, each of us packed crampons into our backpacks just in case. On the spot, it turns out that although the terrain is not snow-covered, the ground is still very firmly frozen. We are now walking over the remains of a small glacier that once existed here – on something like its “foundations”. In any case, the terrain is very slippery and the slope is considerable, so every step must be extremely careful and well-thought-out. Furthermore, the small glacier has not yet completely melted, which is evidenced in some parts by visible, large crevasses.
On the slippery section, we notice rusty tin cans and the remains of a wooden construction. Since my thoughts are focused on surviving and not sliding anywhere, I take these items for mere trash and don’t pay them much attention. Jaromir notices, however, that these are most likely not standard waste, but… remains of the front that passed through here. Impossible at first glance, but it is objects recovered from the melting glacier that constitute the majority of the exhibits in the local World War I museum. And since there was a small glacier here quite recently, it is quite likely that the thaw has revealed a bit of history.
Unfortunately, crossing the longed-for slippery section does not turn the trip into a pleasant, gentle stroll. Next comes a section of extremely loose, uncomfortable scree. For this reason, reaching the starting point of the via ferrata della Marmolada (2,840 m a.s.l.) is accompanied by an undisguised sense of relief. We all feel that climbing on stable, hard rock is much better than the toil amidst ice and flying pebbles. Before putting on our harnesses, we take a short break to recharge our energy. Good food, as it usually does, adds courage and allows us to gather strength for the next stage of today’s expedition.
Via ferrata della Marmolada [B]
The first version of the via ferrata della Marmolada was created back in 1903, making it one of the oldest iron ways in Italy and the world. At that time, it was called the Hans Seyffert Weg, and its original constructors were still the Austrians. The ferrata to Marmolada is quite simple – the vast majority of sections are rated A or A/B (on a scale from A to F). Only two stages were classified as “B”. The first includes a few moves at the very beginning of the route which, indeed, require a bit more strength. The second is one of the longer and more exposed ladders in the middle part of the ferrata. You can find a detailed topo from bergsteigen.com here.
The ferrata begins at an altitude of approx. 2,840 m a.s.l., quickly leads to the Forcella Marmolada pass (2,885 m a.s.l.), and then continues exclusively along the ridge section. As I mentioned above, the very beginning requires a bit more strength, but from there it is truly accessible. We spend most of the time walking through an undemanding ridge and very long sequences of ladders and staples. To be honest, due to the steady ascent, raw surroundings, and lack of major difficulties, I would even rate the ferrata as somewhat monotonous. The iron way leads us to an altitude of approx. 3,150 m a.s.l., and crossing it takes us just over an hour. We are now on the edge of the Marmolada glacier, which, from this perspective, looks quite inconspicuous – like a shy, spring remnant of winter blizzards. However, we are aware that appearances are deceptive, and eternal ice is always extremely dangerous terrain. Perhaps this already melting glacier does not make as great an impression as its Norwegian counterparts, but its depths can still contain deadly crevasse-traps.
Punta Penia summit (3,343 m a.s.l.) and the mountain hut in the sky
The last 200 meters of elevation difference are covered in a strictly trekking manner, persistently moving through the stone desert. We reach the summit of Punta Penia (3,343 m a.s.l.) a few minutes before 12 PM, which means the entire ascent takes us about 4 hours. On the summit, there is a huge cross and a plaque commemorating the first conqueror, Paul Grohmann (1864). According to Martyna’s hilarious idea, we pose for commemorative photos with a jar of marmalade. Besides, we also use this spread to compose a nutritious, high-altitude meal :D.
The weather remains good, thanks to which we can admire a vast panorama in every direction from the summit. Wherever you look, there are massive limestone massifs, crowned with a multitude of diverse, fantastic peaks. The ranges are separated by deep, green valleys with visible outlines of individual villages. Looking east, Punta Rocca (3,309 m a.s.l.) draws attention, along with the metal building of the upper cable car station, taking tourists up to an altitude of 3,265 m a.s.l. To the south, the familiar Lago di Fedaia gleams, as well as the monumental wall of Piz Boe (3,152 m a.s.l.) and the soaring silhouette of Langkofel (3,181 m a.s.l.). Finally, looking west, you can see fragments of the mighty south face of Marmolada, the cradle of Italian mountaineering. The views are interesting, monumental, but… incredibly raw. While the lower parts of the Dolomites have a bucolic and charming character, the higher parts… well… seem to be just an endless stone desert.
To the west of the summit, there is also… a small mountain shelter – Capanna Punta Penia. Naturally, it is the highest facility of this type in the Dolomites. Although not heated, the shelter has a small kitchen, a dining room, and offers 10 beds. It was built by an Italian guide in the late 1940s. The builder used wood and aluminum left over from an old Austrian post from World War I. In later years, the shelter was expanded several times and has been offering overnight accommodation since the 1980s.
The shelter seems incredibly atmospheric to me. Without hesitation, we order an invigorating espresso, satisfyingly enjoying it on the scenic terrace. Jaromir gets into a friendly chat with the host about the front that once passed through here. By the way, according to the staff, Poles constitute the largest national group on Punta Penia besides Italians. Very nice!
Descent from Punta Penia
Fearing afternoon storms, we begin the descent from Punta Penia a quarter before 1 PM. We descend the same way – first via the ferrata, then through the icy remains of the small glacier. Fortunately, the descent on the slippery terrain turned out to be slightly less traumatic than the ascent. I am glad because I was a bit worried about this section. Returning, I push ahead a little, remembering Ada waiting for us.
Crossing the deceptive stone desert also seems much easier than in the first direction. I notice every cairn instantly, without once straying from the correct path. I quickly return to the Forcella Col de Bous pass and descend to the Rifugio Cima Undici lodge. Ada is already waiting for me on the lawn in front of the restaurant. So we rest together, exchanging experiences. Despite different goals, the conclusions are consistent. The Marmolada massif seems interesting to us, worth seeing, but at the same time definitely too raw to be called “beautiful”. Regarding the time – the entire trip took about 8 hours.
After a dozen or so minutes, the forecasts are confirmed and heavy rain begins to fall from the sky. The other participants of the trip – Jaromir, Martyna, and Dominik – arrive somewhat soaked. Ada and I laugh, thinking that we were incredibly lucky today. Karma returned two days later, drenching us with heavy rain during the descent from Piz Boe. But about that… about that another time!
Trip date: August 14, 2025
Trip statistics: 13 km; 1,450 meters of elevation difference
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