Ciucaș (1,954 m a.s.l.) is the highest peak of the range of the same name. It is located in Romania, within the southern part of the Eastern Carpathians (known in Romania as Carpații de Curbură – the Curvature Carpathians). As in neighboring ranges, wild nature here intertwines with pastoral traditions and panoramic views. However, Ciucaș stands out due to its fantastic limestone rock formations, which give the mountains a unique, somewhat fairytale-like character. The range is equipped with a mountain hut – Cabana Vârful Ciucaș, offering accommodation and a restaurant with a wide selection of Romanian specialties (including local pastries called papanași).
Table of contents
- Waking up in the Ciucaș range
- Ascent to the Tigăilor Pass (1,745 m a.s.l.)
- Ciucaș – the summit
- From the Ciucaș peak to the Cabana Vârful Ciucaș hut
- A stopover at Cabana Vârful Ciucaș
- Descent to the final campground
- Cheia, Prejmer and… the end!
- Trip map
Waking up in the Ciucaș range
As an introduction, Ciucaș is the third range I visited during Summer Crossing 2023, a hiking camp organized by the Student Mountain Club (SKG) in Warsaw. Previously, we visited the monumental Bucegi Mountains and completed a trek through the idyllic and deserted Baiului. Ciucaș, therefore, represents the culmination of a beautiful, multi-day journey through the Romanian wilderness.
We wake up a few minutes before 7:00 AM. Our campsite today is located at an altitude of approximately 1,330 m a.s.l., about a kilometer from the Bratocea Pass (1,272 m a.s.l., which separates the Ciucaș Mountains from the Baiului). Since we chose an open area for sleeping, we can enjoy pleasant views of the surrounding peaks right from the start. Particular attention is drawn to a characteristic group of rocks looming to the north – Sfinxul Bratocei. By the way, the presence of numerous rock formations is a major peculiarity of the Ciucaș range. On a base built of typical Carpathian flysch, you will find many irregular limestone outcrops of various shapes and sizes. Today will be marked by constant observation of these geological wonders.
Ascent to the Tigăilor Pass (1,745 m a.s.l.)
We begin today’s trek around 9:00 AM with a fairly demanding ascent. We follow a red-marked trail, which leads entirely through a ridge meadow. We are now moving along a double border: administrative (between the Brașov and Prahova counties) and historical (between Transylvania and Wallachia). At an altitude of approx. 1,450 m a.s.l., we pass the Releu Bratocea – a television transmitter visible from afar. Behind us, a vast panorama of the well-known Baiului range materializes. After covering less than two kilometers, around 9:45 AM, we arrive directly at the Sfinxul Bratocei rock formation (approx. 1,550 m a.s.l.). To be honest, from a close distance, it does not make as much of an impression as it did from our campsite. The formation owes its name to the fact that one of the local rocks resembles a human face with downcast eyes, which apparently reminded an observer of the mythical Sphinx.
Above the Sphinx, another few dozen meters of steep climbing await us, after which the trail levels out for a longer stretch. We walk through open terrain the whole time, along a narrow path between low shrubs. On the right, we are accompanied by a fantastic panorama of the second ridge of the Ciucaș range along with its highest peak – Gropșoarele (1,883 m a.s.l.). However, the most magnificent view only reveals itself further on – on the traverse of the Bratocea summit (1,827 m a.s.l.). From here, an incredible panorama of the rounded rocks building the slopes of the Tigăile Mari summit (1,844 m a.s.l.) unfolds. It looks truly magical – like something out of a fairytale or a fantasy movie… just look at these photos! Surrounded by these insane views, we reach the Tigăilor Pass (1,745 m a.s.l.), separating Bratocea from Ciucaș. Since Asia, currently acting as our guide, announces a break, we all lie down on the green meadow as one.
As I mentioned in my previous Romanian posts, Summer Crossing 2023 is a specific exam designed to verify whether the candidate is suitable to be a mountain guide for the SKG. In addition to the periodic rotation of the “lead,” each participant prepares their own talk on a theme revolving around the mountains and Transylvania. It’s no wonder that even this break is enriched by thematic stories – Asia talks about the geology of the Carpathians, and Alicja about the history of the Romanian state and nation.
Ciucaș – the summit
After a solid dose of new knowledge, we put our backpacks back on and continue the hike. The section ahead of us is neither long nor excessively exhausting – the ascent from the Tigăilor Pass to the summit of Ciucaș (1,954 m a.s.l.) is one kilometer long and involves gaining 200 meters of elevation. We reach the highest point of the range around 1:00 PM, four hours after leaving the camp at the Bratocea Pass. The summit offers a lovely panorama of the entire Ciucaș Mountains and many neighboring ridges (including the Baiului we explored earlier). A Romanian flag waves proudly at the top, and most of us eagerly take souvenir photos with it.
From the Ciucaș peak to the Cabana Vârful Ciucaș hut
A few hundred meters after descending from Mount Ciucaș, at an altitude of approx. 1,870 m a.s.l., we reach another interesting rock formation – Babele la Sfat (loosely translated as “Grandmothers in Council”). Well… I must admit that the richness of karst forms in this range makes a truly solid impression. As if that weren’t enough, immediately after passing Babele la Sfat, a view opens up to another wonder – the rocks building the summit dome of Tigăile Mari (1,844 m a.s.l.). Did I mention that this range incredibly resembles a fairytale land from a fantasy film?
However, we do not climb to the summit itself, as the trail traverses its slope from the northern side. This traverse is actually the most demanding part of today’s trek. The path narrows significantly here and leads through a rocky, loose gully. Despite maintaining increased caution, some members of our group slipped on these treacherous pebbles. The situation is further complicated by heavy backpacks, making it much harder to keep one’s balance.
The less hospitable part of our trail continues for several hundred meters. Immediately after forcing it, however, we return to a wide, friendly path. Walking through open terrain the whole time, we traverse the summit of Muntele Chirușca (1,664 m a.s.l.). Ahead of us lies an interesting panorama of the eastern part of the Ciucaș range, namely the Gropșoarele massif (1,883 m a.s.l.). From up close, it’s easy to see that this is a ridge clearly different from the one we are currently on. While the summit parts are also covered with open meadows, there are definitely fewer rock formations there.
Just a few hundred more meters of gentle descent and… we made it! We arrive at the first mountain hut in many days – Cabana Vârful Ciucaș, located at an altitude of approx. 1,590 m a.s.l. Civilization, here we are!
A stopover at Cabana Vârful Ciucaș
Cabana Vârful Ciucaș has 60 beds in 18 rooms, furnished to a three-star hotel standard. The facility includes electricity, running water, cable TV, indoor toilets, and a restaurant serving traditional Romanian dishes. For an additional fee, the hut staff provides transport for tourists by off-road vehicle directly to the facility. The first building was erected here in 1937, but the current structure dates back to 2008.
The first thing we do at the hut is… visit the toilet. However it sounds, we haven’t had the chance to use a normal sink for a few days. When I look in the mirror, I realize that, to put it mildly, I’m a bit overgrown. So I grab a razor and spend the next few minutes bringing my face back to relative order. We take a long break at the hut, and most of our group orders a local sweet – papanași. It is a type of fried or boiled cheese doughnut, served warm, usually topped with sour cream and homemade jam. While the dessert actually tastes great, the problem at the hut becomes… the waiting time. The last people to order get their treat over an hour after placing the order.
According to the initial plan, after leaving the hut, our group is to continue on the red trail and bag the Gropșoarele summit today as well. However, as neither time nor collective morale allows it, our current guide – Kuba, decides to shorten the trekking length. From the hut, we take the yellow trail, which follows a gentle forest path.
Descent to the final campground
A little over three kilometers of hiking on the yellow trail and we arrive at the asphalt road leading to a small settlement of tourist quarters (approx. 1,270 m a.s.l.). At this point, we take the red hiking trail, descending toward our place of sleep for tonight – a pleasant little meadow at an altitude of approx. 1,000 m a.s.l. Our final descent is accompanied by a lovely view of the neighboring Tătaru mountains.
One of the reasons Kuba decided to shorten today’s trek was the desire to organize a long, atmospheric evening by the campfire. And indeed. We are on the meadow in the late afternoon, which gives us the chance to set up the camp calmly. A major help is also that there is a fallen tree on the meadow, and a stream flows by its edge. Preparing the campfire goes quite efficiently today, and in the final count, we sit by it longer than usual. I think to myself that this is a good culmination of this expedition. After all, trips like this are not about breaking sporting records, but rather about spending time together, falling into a pleasant state of melancholy, and stopping for a moment in this rushing, crazy world of ours.
At the last campfire, tourist songs ring out and many words of thanks are spoken. Every participant of the expedition receives a special metal tag with the name of the organizer – Student Mountain Club (SKG) in Warsaw – and the trip motto: “Wildness in the heart every day.” After arriving in Poland, I attached this souvenir to my beloved hiking backpack. From that moment, a Romanian accent accompanies me on every mountain trip, traversing thousands of kilometers across dozens of different ranges. Special, personalized badges are also handed out at the fire. I personally receive an award for being a “caring brother,” due to my unconcealed anxiety when one afternoon Martyna didn’t return for a long time with water from the ravine.
This is how our last day in the Romanian mountains passes. The next day, we pack up the camp and descend to the nearby town of Cheia. Though there was plenty of time in the mountains, and one is already a bit tired of it all… I’m really sorry to see it end!
Cheia, Prejmer and… the end!
In the town of Cheia, we visit the lovely 19th-century Church of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary and then board a bus. Driving along beautiful Transylvanian roads, we arrive at the town of Prejmer. In one of the local parks (I will never forget this, but these are good memories!), we eat freeze-dried meals, which, due to a lack of water, were flooded with… tea. In the town, we visit one of the fortified churches characteristic of this region, which is also inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage list. It was built by the Teutonic Knights and expanded by the Germans who lived here for centuries, the so-called Transylvanian Saxons.
After visiting Prejmer, it’s time to return to Brașov. For the last night in Romania, we check into the same hostel where this whole adventure of ours began. A beautiful structural closure, isn’t it? And impressions from the trip? Wow… The trip to Romania was, above all, intensive for me, because it triggered a whole range of all possible emotions: from anger, regret, and resignation to delight, joy, and satisfaction. I met many interesting people here, conducted dozens of interesting conversations, and learned many new hiking skills. For nearly two weeks, I lived in a group where we constantly cooperated and were always interdependent.
All this makes me consider the trip to Romania an extremely valuable experience. I am glad that I accidentally ended up at this hiking camp, tasting something new, intensive, beautiful… Thank you SKG Warsaw for the organization and a wonderful holiday. And remember… Wildness in the heart every day :).
Trip date: August 17, 2023
Trip statistics: 17.5 km; 900 meters of elevation gain
Thanks to Alicja Szostak (see IG!) and Michał Kobryń (see IG!) for sharing beautiful photos!
Thank you for taking the time to read my post! If you want to stay up to date with new content, I invite you to follow me on Facebook and Instagram! I will be grateful for every like, comment, and share. If you find my content valuable and want to support me, I invite you to buy me a virtual coffee on buycoffee.to.
Trip map
