Liakoura (2,457 m) – The Highest Peak of the Parnassus Mountains

Liakoura (2,457 m a.s.l.) is the highest peak of the Parnassus Mountains, located in central Greece, about 200 kilometers west of Athens. Although today it mainly attracts skiing enthusiasts, its impressive silhouette has ignited the imagination for millennia, permanently etching itself into the pages of mythology. It was these rugged, limestone slopes of Parnassus that the ancient Greeks considered one of the most important places on the spiritual map of the world. The range was believed to be the mythical home of the god Apollo, and according to some traditions – also of his entire troop of joyful Muses. It was also believed that the rocky reaches of Parnassus were traversed by Dionysus along with his colorful entourage. Deucalion and Pyrrha landed on the ridges of Parnassus after the Great Flood sent by Zeus, and it was there that Apollo supposedly met Orpheus and, in recognition of his talent, presented him with the famous golden lyre.

Today, the range is primarily famous for the largest ski resort in Greece. With winter sports enthusiasts in mind, roads have been built high into the mountains and extensive parking lots organized. One of the latter will serve as my base for a short afternoon trek to the highest peak of Parnassus. I cordially invite you to the report!

Table of Contents

1. Driving from Delphi to Parnassus
2. Trekking from Fterolaka Ski Resort
3. Liakoura – The Summit Approach
4. Liakoura – The Way Back
5. Trip Map

Driving from Delphi to Parnassus

It is currently the second day of my trip to Greece. Early in the morning, I left Athens in a rented car to visit the Byzantine monastery of Hosios Loukas and the famous archaeological site in Delphi. Since I generally like intensive trips, I planned an ascent of Mount Parnassus for the afternoon. You might think: how so? A peak the size of the High Tatras, and he’s heading there at the end of the day? Yes, I am, because the infrastructure allows for it. The ski parking lots are located high enough that there is relatively little elevation gain left to cover.

I had my first doubt about my plan while visiting Delphi. Well… it started raining, and the amount of dark clouds above my head did not signal a quick improvement in the weather. I must admit I was slightly disappointed. I went to Greece at the end of October, convinced I was heading to a land full of sunshine. Well… However, since it eventually stopped raining, I decided to go ahead with my afternoon trekking plans. Although I didn’t expect great views, the urge to go to the mountains was extremely strong.

Thus, around 2:30 PM, I leave Delphi. After a few dozen minutes, I reach Arachova, the most famous winter resort in Hellas. Just before entering the town center, I turn left onto a steep side road winding in wide zig-zags up the slope. In this way, I reach an altitude of 1,000 m a.s.l. and find myself among the higher-situated buildings. I plan to stop here for a quick lunch – maybe some gyros or fries. To my surprise, practically every tavern I pass turns out to be closed (while Google Maps information indicated they should be open). Everywhere is empty and quiet. The only living beings around are wandering dogs – a very common sight in Greece.

Oh well, I dig out the last remains from my backpack and construct a makeshift meal. This will have to suffice, and I’ll eat better after returning to Delphi. Following the navigation’s advice, I turn right, beginning a more ambitious gain in altitude. In this way, I reach the first of the extensive parking lots of the Parnassos Ski Center. I glance at the map… and realize this isn’t it yet. Although a hiking trail does start from here, I want to drive higher. I keep going!

The asphalt road traverses the slope for four kilometers and then leads to the lower parking lot of the Fterolaka Ski Resort (approx. 1,600 m a.s.l.). But I keep going, exactly as the navigation shows. It soon turns out that the further road is terrible. Lots of gravel, stones, drops, and holes. If you have a nice 4×4 – you’ll manage. However, if you have, like me, a small rental car – I rather advise against it, don’t repeat my mistake.

Ultimately, I leave the car at the upper parking lot of Fterolaka Ski Resort, at an altitude of approx. 1,800 m a.s.l. I start the trek at 3:40 PM. The place seems completely deserted – besides mine, there is only one other old car here.

Trekking from Fterolaka Ski Resort

I begin the trip to Liakoura with an intensive section of ascent on a clear, wide road. The beginning is very intuitive, leading through the infrastructure of the ski resort: technical buildings and smaller lifts. After overcoming two bends, I pass through a rocky threshold and enter a vast, rocky valley. Since I started the trek above the tree line, the surroundings look quite harsh. Everywhere there are just rocks and gray-brown grass, clearly scorched by a whole summer of sun.

The first three kilometers of trekking pass with only 170 meters of elevation gain. Since the incline is gentle, I try to keep a steady, good pace the whole time. I am aware that while October days are longer in Greece than in some northern countries, they are still limited. After three kilometers, at an altitude of approx. 1,950 m a.s.l., I reach a fork. The wide road turns left, crossing to another part of the slope in a wide arc. Straight ahead runs a “shortcut” variant, characterized by a steeper incline and much more stony ground. It begins with a characteristic “rock gate” and, interestingly, is marked with red paint along its entire length.

The shortcut lasts about 1.2 kilometers and rejoins the main dirt road at an altitude of approx. 2,120 m a.s.l. In places, I notice traces of something like a trodden path, but most of the time I just walk over stones, dirt, and brown grass. Despite trying to maintain maximum concentration, at one point I lose sight of the row of painted red dots. However, I don’t worry too much about it, as navigation in this place is quite intuitive. You simply go up towards the main road traversing the slope. From the ascent, I have an interesting view of a nearby peak with a fantastic, huge rock window. Wow, what a beauty!

The climb through grass and stones indeed brings me back to the main dirt road. I follow it for another half kilometer before turning right onto another “shortcut” variant. This turn-off lasts about 400 meters and allows for a quick gain of about 90 meters in elevation. And what next? You guessed it! Another section of traverse along the familiar dirt road.

Liakoura – The Summit Approach

6 kilometers after leaving the parking lot, I reach a shallow pass located at an altitude of 2,250 m a.s.l. From here, I begin the final ascent to the Liakoura summit. This stage requires overcoming 200 meters of elevation gain over a distance of 700 meters… so it is steeper, but still relatively gentle. The bigger problem is the weather: fog, cold, and lashing wind. Perfect holiday aura in Greece, no doubt! :D. The aforementioned dirt road leads to the pass, but from there, I follow an ordinary mountain path. Like the shortcut variants, it is also marked with quite clear red paint.

I summit Liakoura (2,457 m a.s.l.) a few minutes after 5:00 PM, about 1.5 hours after leaving the parking lot. As I predicted, the views are rather mediocre. However, I won’t complain, as the strong wind occasionally blows the clouds away, revealing significant parts of the summit panorama. I still remember how rainy it was in the earlier stages of the day, so the mere fact that I can see anything is something I accept with great gratitude.

Above all, however, on the highest peak of Parnassus, I fulfill a small dream of mine. For many, mountains and the sea are seen as opposites, extremes, two poles. Some people always ask “do you prefer the mountains or the sea?”. For this reason, some time ago I dreamed of… climbing a high mountain from which I could see the sea. Simple? Perhaps, but for many years I simply didn’t have the opportunity to climb such a peak. I only fulfill this goal on the summit of Liakoura, from which the blue of the Gulf of Corinth is clearly visible today…

Liakoura – The Way Back

After only a few minutes, the strong wind and the haunting awareness of the inevitable sunset drive me away from the summit. Since I don’t have a great desire to be in the Parnassus range after dark, I quickly begin losing altitude. When I am back at the pass, I turn around and see… Liakoura in all its glory, without a shadow of cloudiness. I smile to myself… Oh Mountain, couldn’t you have cleared up literally five minutes ago when I was up there? For a short moment, I consider returning to the summit… but common sense wins out.

I cover most of the way back at a light jog. It might not be very comfortable with a backpack, but on the other hand, it allows me to efficiently cover the more monotonous sections. Fearing getting lost unnecessarily, I don’t take the “longer shortcut” on the way back, staying on the main dirt road the whole time. I arrive at the car at 6:15 PM, in the last rays of the setting sun.

I feel like I did the right thing by not going back – otherwise, darkness would have certainly caught me on the trail. And this way? This way I start the Skoda while it’s still light, carefully descending the potholed route. I reach my hotel in Delphi around 8:00 PM – tired, but very satisfied with an intensive, interesting day. In the evening, I go to the only open restaurant and order a classic Greek gyros. And I have to tell you honestly – it was absolutely delicious.

And tomorrow? Tomorrow the trekking won’t just be an addition to the day, but its main theme. Read the bittersweet report from summiting the nearby Pyramida, the highest peak in this part of Greece!

Date of the trip: October 22, 2025

Trip statistics: 14.5 km; 650 meters of elevation gain

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Trip Map