Kozi Wierch (2,291 m a.s.l.) is undoubtedly among the most popular summits in the High Tatras. The mountain is famous for being the highest peak located entirely within Poland and offers fairy-tale panoramas of places particularly important to mountain hikers – Dolina Gąsienicowa on one side and Dolina Pięciu Stawów Polskich on the other. From the latter, a black trail leads to Kozi Wierch – easily accessible and devoid of any technical difficulties. On this route, you will find neither demanding rock elements nor artificial aids such as pins or chains. In this post, I will focus on precisely this variant – in winter conditions.
For the sake of order, I should add that there is also an alternative route to Kozi Wierch. From the western side, a trail leads to the summit from Kozia Przełęcz, one of the more difficult fragments of the Orla Perć. This is a one-way variant, requiring experience in rocky environments and resistance to exposure. In winter, this route is particularly difficult, often tackled even with moving belays. Therefore, when the Tatras are wrapped in a snowy blanket, the approach via the easy black trail is much more recommended for the average tourist.
Table of contents
- Kozi Wierch for the winter season inauguration!
- Trekking through Dolina Roztoki
- By the Wielka Siklawa waterfall
- In Dolina Pięciu Stawów Polskich
- Black trail to Kozi Wierch
- Kozi Wierch in winter – the summit
- Descent from Kozi Wierch to the PTTK mountain hut
- PTTK Roztoka mountain hut at the end of the day
- Trip map
- Bibliography
Kozi Wierch for the winter season inauguration!
At the turn of September and October 2025, news broke that the first snow had fallen in the Tatras. Photos of frosted ridges and whitened gullies quickly spread across the internet – a subtle but clear sign that summer is finally giving way to winter, and the mountains are once again reminding us that they live by their own calendar. The sudden change in weather is all the more surprising to me because just two weeks earlier, in full sunshine and short sleeves, I was summiting Lomnický štít. And now? Now it turns out that on the very first weekend of October, I’ll have to pull my crampons out of the closet :D.
It’s a few minutes past 8:00 AM when Martyna, Jaromir, and I pull into the parking lot at Palenica Białczańska (approx. 990 m a.s.l.). As usual, we buy tickets in advance on the official Tatra National Park website (link!). The price for spots is flexible – cheaper during the week, more expensive on weekends. Before heading into the winter Tatras, you should always check the current avalanche danger level (at this link).
The plan is to admire the first snow in Dolina Pięciu Stawów Polskich. As for the summits – we’ll see what the current conditions allow. I already learned that the “Piątka” looks fantastic in its winter version in early January of this year, during the snowiest period of the 2024/2025 season.
Trekking through Dolina Roztoki
Even in the Palenica Białczańska parking lot, we feel the crisp, frosty air for the first time in many months. We set off without unnecessary delay, wanting to warm up as quickly as possible. We head forward on the red trail, the well-known asphalt road to Morskie Oko. From this perspective, we can already see that the internet wasn’t lying and the Tatra peaks are indeed covered with fresh white powder.
After three kilometers on the asphalt, we reach Wodogrzmoty Mickiewicza, the famous waterfalls on the Roztoka River. Just a few dozen meters further, we turn right onto the green trail. We leave the asphalt and enter straight into the dense forest. At first, the path is quite steep, but it levels out after the first 200 meters. For the next three kilometers, we follow the wide and comfortable trail running along the bottom of Dolina Roztoki.
Just a few minutes after the first climb, the forest thins out, revealing a view of the peaks surrounding the valley. To the left, a fragment of the Opalony Wierch ridge looms with Orla Ściana and, a bit further, the characteristic Świstowa Czuba. To the right are the monumental, jagged slopes of Wołoszyn. By the way, avalanches descend from the latter with above-average frequency. This is evidenced by the heavily devastated forest here. For this reason, when heading to Dolina Pięciu Stawów Polskich in winter, you must check the current avalanche danger report.
Less than half an hour from the trail junction, the main protagonist of this article appears before our eyes – Kozi Wierch. From this perspective, the summit looks very elegant, clearly protruding above the surrounding peaks. At the same time, at an altitude of approx. 1,370 m a.s.l., the forest finally gives way to dwarf mountain pines. Around us, we see more and more signs of the recent snowfall, and the trail itself becomes increasingly icy (in such conditions, consider wearing micro-spikes!). At an altitude of approx. 1,400 m a.s.l., we spot the structure of the lower station of the freight ropeway that delivers supplies to the PTTK mountain hut in Dolina Pięciu Stawów Polskich.
By the Wielka Siklawa waterfall
About 3.5 kilometers from leaving the asphalt, we stand at the trail crossroads. At this point, we must decide on the choice of variant to scale the steep valley threshold separating Dolina Roztoki from Dolina Pięciu Stawów Polskich. The classic winter variant involves starting the approach to the PTTK hut via the black trail, and then, at an altitude of approx. 1,600 m a.s.l., turning left from it. You then bypass Niżna Kopa from the other side, hit the summer blue trail, and continue along the shores of the Przedni Staw Polski lake. I discussed the winter variant of the approach to the valley in detail here.
However, since today’s conditions aren’t fully “winter” yet, we decide to continue via the green trail. We conclude that today’s trip gives us a rare opportunity to see the largest waterfall in the Tatras, Wielka Siklawa, surrounded by white accents. And so we do. We arrive there fifteen minutes later, after overcoming the first stage of the steep climb. And indeed – the roaring waterfall looks truly wonderful today. Siklawa is 70 meters high and falls from a rocky ledge with an average slope of 35 degrees. The waterfall is one of the oldest Tatra attractions – it was already popular in the first half of the 19th century.
The green trail circles Wielka Siklawa from the left, climbing steeply up stone steps. we tackle this section with maximum concentration because the path turns out to be devilishly icy. What is particularly puzzling is that during the climb, we also pass families with small children. In general, I have great respect for parents who show the mountains to their children from a young age. However, I have serious doubts whether, in today’s conditions, the trail is suitable for little ones completely unaware of the danger.
In Dolina Pięciu Stawów Polskich
About twenty minutes after leaving the waterfall, the green trail leads us to Wielki Staw Polski, the largest and deepest lake in the Tatras. We turn right and continue via the blue trail. For the next kilometer and a half, we gain altitude very gently, following a visible, well-worn path. In Dolina Pięciu Stawów Polskich, there is actually already quite a bit of snow. The air clarity today is brilliant, so the surrounding peaks present themselves absolutely wonderfully.
Since the aura is favorable, we don’t intend to stop at the valley itself. Initially, we even think shyly about an off-trail trip – to Gładký vrch or Valentková. However, when we stand below the Kołowa Turnia ridge, it becomes clear that the paths visible in summer have not yet been broken by anyone. The vision of breaking a trail in fresh, treacherous snow seems so uninviting that we let it go. So where should we go instead? We turn our heads, look forward… And now we know! Time to climb Kozi Wierch!
I have already been on Kozi Wierch three times – but each time was in summer, while doing the Orla Perć. So the time has come to judge for myself how the views from this peak look in winter conditions.
Black trail to Kozi Wierch
Once the decision is made, we have to stick to it! We turn back from below Kołowa Turnia and cover the kilometer we distanced ourselves from the black trail junction. On the way, we pass the yellow trail turn-offs – first left to Kozia Przełęcz, then right to the famous Szpiglasowy Wierch. From the trail, I observe Zamarła Turnia, the cradle of Polish mountaineering. Will I ever reach a level to try one of the many climbing routes on this dignified wall?
At 11:35 AM, we arrive at the start of the black trail. We take the clearly broken path and begin the laborious climb. We are walking on one of the oldest Tatra trails – this route was marked as early as 1905. Two years later, it was here that the first winter conquerors of Kozi Wierch climbed – the legendary Mariusz Zaruski, founder of TOPR, and Józef Borkowski. Both reached the summit on skis and then skied down. Although today, in the era of feats by Andrzej Bargiel or Bartek Ziemski, this achievement may seem trivial, in 1907 it was a great event in the mountaineering community.
The black trail is essentially a steady, at times somewhat monotonous climb up a moderately steep slope (on a distance of 1.4 kilometers, there are 570 meters of elevation gain here). The path is very comfortable, as most of the time it leads over carefully laid stone steps. Regarding the snow cover, it varies greatly: sometimes there is quite a lot of white powder, other times we step on completely dry rock. The approach is well-exposed to the sun, which on clear days guarantees climbing with an above-average perceived temperature.
The unhurried scaling of the slope takes us about an hour. 200 meters before the summit, at an altitude of approx. 2,210 m a.s.l., the black trail joins the red trail, a fragment of the Orla Perć. Next, we overcome the last meters of elevation and cross a very short section of easy ridge walking.
Kozi Wierch in winter – the summit
A few minutes after 1:00 PM, we arrive at the summit of Kozi Wierch. There are many people on the trail, but for a short moment, we have the summit exclusively to ourselves. By the way, Kozi Wierch in winter has a very limited capacity. While in summer a dozen people often sit on its summit, in winter it feels crowded with just a few.
It is well known that in the frosty winter air, Tatra panoramas make the greatest impression. Individual peaks, which in summer blur in the masses of warm air, now become incredibly clear, sharp, as if… close. The panorama from Kozi Wierch is therefore simply intimidating. To the south, Dolina Pięciu Stawów Polskich, the Miedziane wall, and Szpiglasowy Szczyt are visible as if on a plate. In the background, we spot hundreds of Tatra peaks, of which, looking from the right, the most prominent are Hrubý vrch, Kôprovský štít, Mięguszowieckie Szczyty, Rysy, Vysoká, Gerlach, Východná Vysoká, or Ľadový štít. Looking south, the Czarny Staw Gąsienicowy, Kościelec, and Giewont draw particular attention. To the west, the mighty Świnica and the view of the multitude of peaks of the Western Tatras are impressive.
Descent from Kozi Wierch to the PTTK mountain hut
At the summit of Kozi Wierch, we put on our crampons for the first time this winter season. Due to the small amount of snow, they wouldn’t have been useful during the ascent. However, they should be much more helpful during the descent. We experience some confusion shortly below the summit when the broken path branches into two alternative variants. As it later turns out, we went up one and came down the other, and… neither of them ran exactly along the designated trail. These are, however, minor deviations, and the broken track becomes coincident again with the black markings at an altitude of approx. 2,180 m a.s.l.
After about an hour of descent, I arrive back at the bottom of Dolina Pięciu Stawów Polskich. We pass Wielki Staw Polski, cross the bridge over the Roztoka river, and then, along the shores of Przedni Staw Polski, we reach the most beautiful of all PTTK mountain huts. The first such objects were built in the “Piątka” as early as the second half of the 19th century, at the very beginning of the development of the tourist movement in the Polish Tatras. The current building was opened in 1953. The hut is beloved by all mountain hikers I know, and until recently remained the last object in the Tatras where you could sleep on the floor.
After a quick sandwich and warming up, we begin the descent from the hut via the black trail. Due to the low level of snow, the standard variant is still used, bypassing Niżna Kopa from the southern side. We lose altitude among the dwarf pines, once again observing the monumental wall of the nearby Wołoszyn. Every time I walk this trail, I am captivated by this huge space, this palpable mountain power…
PTTK Roztoka mountain hut at the end of the day
A few minutes after 4:00 PM, we arrive back on the asphalt road to Morskie Oko. However, we don’t head to the car yet, as we want to take the opportunity to make up for a serious Tatra omission. Neither Martyna nor I had ever been to the iconic PTTK Roztoka mountain hut. As it happens, we usually return along the asphalt either in the evening or late afternoon and simply don’t have the desire for additional extensions. But not today!
We cross the asphalt road and continue via the green trail. The approach section to the PTTK Roztoka mountain hut involves a slight loss of altitude (approx. 60 meters). From between the trees, friendly views towards the east pierce through from time to time – at the touristically inaccessible Široká massif (2,210 m a.s.l.).
The PTTK Roztoka mountain hut is considered one of the most pleasant places in the Polish mountains. On a Saturday afternoon, the facility is somewhat crowded, but we still manage to find a bit of space at the wooden tables and eat a late dinner. So what exactly is the phenomenon of this place and such a strange, from today’s point of view, location of the building? Well, when the Tatra Society built the first hut here in 1876, the path to Morskie Oko led precisely through here. The object quickly became a cultural place, popular both among ordinary excursionists and among battle-hardened mountaineers attacking ambitious walls in the Slovak part of the mountains.
I hope that one day a bridge over the Białka river will be built, which would connect the hut in Roztoka with the Slovak blue trail. I have the impression that this would further increase the attractiveness of this place.
From the PTTK Roztoka mountain hut, we return to the parking lot in Palenica Białczańska. What a beautiful, frosty day it was!
Trip date: October 4, 2025
Trip statistics: 23.5 km; 1,640 meters elevation gain
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Trip map
Bibliography
- Nyka J., Nyczanka M, Tatry Polskie, 22nd edition, Latchorzew 2020.
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