In the harsh, isolated climate of the Western Caucasus, where you can only arrive via a potholed road, where snow lies for an average of 6 months a year, and where according to legend, gold was washed from mountain streams using sheepskins—there, the Svans guard their history and cultural heritage. The Svans are a warrior people inhabiting the high-mountain areas on the northwestern frontiers of Georgia. Their magical land—Svaneti—is an ideal destination for lovers of trekking, high-altitude climbing, and glacial adventures. The regional capital is Mestia. This is where we begin our Georgian adventure, which I want to share with you. On the first day of our journey through Svaneti, we reached Mestia and visited one of the most important local tourist attractions – the Koruldi Lakes. Welcome to the report!
TABLE OF CONTENTS:
- Mestia – Key Information
- Getting to Mestia
- Koruldi Lakes – The Ascent
- Koruldi Lakes – The Trekking Finale
- Trip Map
- What else to do in Mestia?
Mestia – Key Information
- Mestia is a small town in northwestern Georgia. You can reach it by rental car or marshrutka (minibus) from Kutaisi. The journey usually takes 4-6 hours. The road is winding, narrow, and potholed, but now almost entirely paved. The town center lies at an altitude of approximately 1,400 m above sea level.
- When traveling to Georgia by plane, the fastest way to get to Mestia is by landing in Kutaisi. During the summer season, marshrutkas depart daily from the station in Kutaisi. The stop for the minibus we are looking for is located right next to McDonald’s. Don’t be fooled though—there are two McDonald’s in Kutaisi—one in the very center at the main square, and the second on the outskirts, about 5 km from the center. We are interested in the second one!
- Marshrutka tickets can be bought with cash at the station box office. In 2025, we paid about 12 EUR per person. The official departure time for the bus is supposedly 9:00 AM, but you should arrive at the spot no later than 8:00 AM. The bus will already be waiting there and will depart when full. In our case, it was 8:20 AM.
- Mestia can also be reached by marshrutkas from Batumi and Tbilisi. An attractive option is a flight in a small plane to Mestia, landing at the local Queen Tamar Airport. It costs about 45 EUR and certainly provides an incredible experience flying over the Caucasus. Unfortunately, it requires booking tickets well in advance, which is risky as the flight is highly dependent on current weather conditions.
- Accommodation in Mestia can be booked through well-known online portals even from day to day. The standard in Georgia is choosing accommodation along with meals (half-board). We did this in the vast majority of cases and very rarely regretted it. The hostesses really step up to the challenge here!
- The town has several supermarkets, many bakeries, and restaurants. Prices are slightly higher than in Kutaisi but still much lower than in European tourist regions. A solid dinner will cost about 5 EUR.
Getting to Mestia
Our Caucasian adventure begins in Kutaisi—Georgia’s second-largest city. After a hearty breakfast at the guesthouse, having been instructed by tourist information about the necessity of arriving early at the station to catch a marshrutka, we take a taxi to the indicated location. Our host from the guesthouse arranged the transport for us. We highly recommend this option, as the ride cost us barely a few zlotys. From our experiences yesterday at the airport, we know that Georgian taxi drivers can demand much higher amounts from unaware tourists.
When we arrive at the station around 8:00 AM, there is already a quite large number of tourists near the marshrutka. One of the drivers approaches us asking “Mestia?”, and after our uncertain nod, he takes our backpacks and tosses them onto an impressive structure of luggage in the small trunk. He points us to a small window serving as a ticket office. We buy the tickets and again, via gestures, we are ordered to get into the minibus.
There are about twenty of us in the minibus in total. When only one or two seats are left, the driver closes the door and sets off. It is shortly after 8:00 AM, so much earlier than the schedule would suggest. Well, I’m glad we listened to the advice about arriving early at the station, and I look sympathetically through the window at two tourists with backpacks briskly heading toward the station. From what we were told, no more buses to Mestia will depart today.
The journey is moderately pleasant. The marshrutka does not have an outstanding shock absorption system, and even worse—it lacks well-functioning air conditioning. Even I—a master of sleeping in all possible means of transport—am unable to nap here for even a moment. Besides, the adrenaline level during every third-lane overtaking or bypassing a cow resting on the road by mere centimeters ensures that I don’t feel like sleeping at all. Roughly until Zugdidi, the road leads through villages, is wide and of good quality. Only later will we learn from a Polish guide that asphalt is an invention of the last few years here. Previously, one had to settle for dirt roads.
Past Zugdidi, the road slowly changes its character. The lane narrows, and the views outside the window become wilder. A narrow and winding road leads through mountainous terrain. It is entirely paved, but the proximity between us and the cars from the opposite direction or, in places, the abyss, does not fill me with excessive confidence. On the way, we stop at a roadside bar, and we reach our destination after about five hours of driving.
The station in Mestia also serves as the central square of this small town. At first glance, you can see that it is definitely a tourist place, but there is no excess or bustle. I must admit that it’s not breathtakingly beautiful either—I’d say it’s simply a pleasant place surrounded by greenery and mountains.
Mestia is a town built on mountain slopes, so we must make a short, very steep uphill march to our guesthouse. Navigation leads us to a slightly crumbling homestead with a characteristic Svan tower. We are just about to turn back when a child from the yard encourages us to enter with gestures and shouts. After a moment, the hostess appears at the door and it turns out we have indeed arrived at the right place. From that moment on, this type of accommodation will become standard for us. Most rooms for rent in Svaneti are spaces prepared for tourists in ordinary homes—usually, we live wall-to-wall with a Georgian family.
Despite the not-so-great appearance from the outside, the conditions in the room we received turned out to be very good. However, we do not intend to rest after the journey. That same day, we want to visit one of the most famous local attractions, namely the demanding trek to the Koruldi Lakes, located at an altitude of approximately 2,740 m above sea level.
Koruldi Lakes – The Ascent
The trail we are interested in passes very close to our accommodation. Just a few dozen meters after leaving the quarters, we are on the right path. The problem is that the trail turns out to be… a river. Well, later I notice it is clearly shown on the map, but at that moment we were somewhat surprised. We have a few dozen meters of balancing on stones ahead of us, but quickly the riverbank widens and the path starts running along the right side of the stream. Shortly after, we veer right and lose sight of the river. We march across a flowery meadow for a while, only to plunge into the forest immediately after. The incline here is significant—in the first kilometer, we cover about 200 meters of elevation difference and reach a crossroads. Here, our route joins the second trail from Mestia, running from the opposite side of town.
Only when we turn left toward the Koruldi Lakes do I realize what we will have to face on this expedition. The path becomes incredibly steep here. Over the next 1.5 km, we cover 500 meters of elevation gain! The trail runs almost entirely through the forest, although in places there are clearings with magnificent views to the south. The Svaneti Range unfolds there with its highest peak Laila—4,009 m, which forms a natural border between Upper Svaneti and Lower Svaneti.
The trail is not marked, but the path is so clear that it’s impossible to mistake it for anything else. Despite the incline reaching 45% at times, it is really comfortable to walk. There is no mud or slippery stones here—just a forest road. As it is the beginning of the trip, we let ourselves be slightly carried away by excitement and at a very fast pace, we reach a huge clearing at an altitude of about 2,200 m. I admit—at this moment, I am completely lost in the beauty.
I wasn’t ready for such magnificent views. I look with disbelief at the snow-capped 3,000-meter peaks. It’s hard for me to grasp that something so massive and monumental can truly exist. At the same time, looking around me, I see a wealth of flowers such as I have never seen in my life. A sea of colors in the strong rays of the Georgian sun, unlimited space, and endorphins after the demanding march make me literally want to jump for joy.
On the clearing, there is also a small viewpoint, which we eagerly climb and organize a quick meal. Time is pressing us, so after a short break, we move forward. We don’t lose the views, because our route leads through open meadows the whole time. The road is wide—you can also reach the lakes by off-road vehicle, and the vehicle road merges with the hiking trail exactly at the aforementioned viewpoint. We see a few cars, but since it’s already 5:00 PM, they are mostly heading back.
We now have a 4-kilometer section of comfortable trekking ahead of us. At first, the incline rises sharply again, and the road leads us to an altitude of about 2,400 m. Then, for 2 kilometers, the trail flattens out almost completely. Only the last fragment of the ascent again slopes to 30-40%. Last moments of effort and we reach the destination.
Koruldi Lakes – The Trekking Finale
I don’t want to spread bad publicity for this very touristy place, so I will say gently that it enchanted me less than the clearing at 2,200 m. I have the impression that the Koruldi Lakes are experiencing a crisis related to global warming, because they all actually look like small ponds. The most important effect, which is the reason for tourist interest in this place, however, remains—the snow-capped giants reflect wonderfully in the surface of the lakes. Mateusz disappears for a long while with his camera, and I try to get my bearings in the terrain.
The official trail ends here, but a fairly visible path leads further up. According to maps, it can be used to reach an unnamed green peak at an altitude of 3,328 m. Were it not for the late hour, I would certainly have decided to discover this area a bit more.
Looking further, I see a small cluster of clouds. This is precisely what covers the most characteristic peaks towering over Mestia—Southern Ushba (4,710 m) and Northern Ushba (4,697 m). These two incredibly steep mountains form a formation resembling horns, and the Guli glacier lies at their base. Climbing the higher peak involves rocky terrain with difficulty up to IV and mixed terrain with variable conditions (I found information about an impressive difficulty of M7+). Occasionally, the wind blows the clouds a bit and the southern horn of Ushba appears to our eyes. However, we only manage to see the horned hero in full by turning back on our way home, when the sun begins to set and the sky becomes cloudless.
The area around the lakes is a huge plateau, perfectly suited for pitching a tent. Looking west, you can see the Guli peak with a modest altitude for the surroundings of 2,926 m. It can be reached following the trail to the village of Mazeri. Unfortunately, this is the opposite direction to our plan, so we must settle for only the view. Besides, the landscapes stretching to the east arouse much greater delight. That is where the 4,000-meter Georgian giants begin. Apparently, with perfect visibility, you can even see Shkhara—5,193 m—from here.
Satisfied, we sit on the meadow and enjoy some wine from a plastic bottle, which was pressed into our hands back at the market in Kutaisi. Georgian wine is strong and intense in taste, and it tastes perfect in such conditions. Slightly warmed and in good spirits, we set off on the way back. This time, at the clearing with the viewpoint, we veer in the opposite direction, i.e., to the left. Thus, we descend to Mestia via the second, alternative variant. After a while, another unforgettable view appears to our eyes. In the orange glow of the sun disappearing behind the horizon, the Tetnuldi peak (4,858 m) presents itself to us in all its glory.
After another lengthy break for photos, we hastily move forward. We don’t have much sunlight left. We have the choice of descending via the wide gravel road for off-road vehicles or choosing the much shorter but steeper trail through the forest. Of course, we decide on the second option. The path is much more overgrown than our trail in the first direction, but in most cases, it’s easy to spot.
We lose altitude at an incredible pace, which allows us to reach a wider and less steep section before total darkness sets in. The last part is a path through the upper buildings of Mestia, between the characteristic Svan defensive towers. Formerly, they provided refuge during fierce clan wars. Currently, they are an inseparable element of the Svan landscape and a priceless cultural achievement, making the entire Upper Svaneti listed on the UNESCO World Heritage List.
We feel that today’s trekking constituted a very strong start to our Georgian holiday. Let’s be honest, how often do you do 1,350 meters of elevation in less than five hours on a “short” afternoon trip? The Koruldi Lakes can, however, be a destination for a full-day trip, combined with a longer break to admire Svaneti views.
And after the lakes? After the lakes, to sleep! Tomorrow we wake up early and set course for Adishi, beginning our multi-day trekking loop.
Date of the trip: July 20, 2025
Trip statistics: 14 km; 1,350 meters of elevation difference
Trip Map
What else to do in Mestia?
Mestia is the most touristy town in Upper Svaneti, and at the same time the starting point of the well-known multi-day trekking route to Ushguli.
Mestia itself also offers several noteworthy attractions. Besides the trek to the Koruldi Lakes described above, you can also go on a hike to the Chaladi glacier. This is an 8 km trek, during which we will gain about 500 meters of elevation. Unfortunately, the road is mostly wide, gravelly, and unattractive. It is therefore worth taking an interest in the horse, bicycle, or off-road vehicle trips offered in town. Another proposal is trekking to the village of Mazeri, located a bit to the west. It is much less touristy and serves as a starting point for the Guli glacier and the famous Ushba peaks.
Aside from mountain tourism, in Mestia, you can engage in discovering Svan culture. The highly recommended Svaneti Museum of History and Ethnography is located here. Unfortunately, we were not able to visit it, as it turned out the facility is closed on Mondays, which was exactly when we were in Mestia. History buffs can also take an interest in the small museums of individual Svan clans. I recommend spending evenings in one of the many restaurants gathered around the main square. They offer great food at a very good price for a European and, quite often, local live music.
An interesting option is visiting the local cinema DEDE, presenting a film showing the realities of life in Svaneti several decades ago. However, the same cinema is also located in Ushguli, so we definitely recommend using this attraction precisely there, at what feels like the end of the world.
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