Starting my adventure with the Great Crown of the Tatra Mountains was one of the many mountain goals I set for myself in connection with my move to Kraków. The peaks included in this list tempted me not only with their significant height but also with the possibility of discovering those “other,” less crowded Tatras. It is no wonder that when Jaromir and Dominik suggested a weekend trip to Kežmarský štít, both Martyna and I reacted very enthusiastically. It’s time to begin a true, off-trail adventure with the Great Crown of the Tatras!
TABLE OF CONTENTS:
- Kežmarský štít – basic information
- Tatranské Matliare – Skalnatá chata
- Skalnatá chata – Nižné sedlo pod Svišťovkou
- Off-trail stage: Nižné sedlo pod Svišťovkou – Kežmarský štít
- Return to Tatranské Matliare via Chata pri Zelenom plese
- Trip map
- Bibliography
Kežmarský štít – basic information
- Kežmarský štít is 2,558 m above sea level, making it the sixth highest peak in the Tatras and one of the fourteen peaks belonging to the Great Crown of the Tatras.
- The peak is located entirely on the Slovak side of the Tatras, and no marked hiking trail leads to its summit.
- The most popular way to reach Kežmarský štít is the approach from Huncovské sedlo (2,307 m). The pass can be accessed from both Skalnatá dolina and Huncovská dolina. Both variants are rated 0+/I on the Tatra scale and require turning left from the red-marked Tatra Magistrale at the appropriate moment.
- An alternative way to summit Kežmarský štít is the ridge approach from Nižné sedlo pod Svišťovkou. The pass can be reached via the red-marked Tatra Magistrale – from both the Skalnaté pleso side and the Zelené pleso side. This variant is rated I/II on the Tatra scale, and this is the route described in this post.
- Kežmarský štít is connected to the nearby Lomnický štít (2,634 m) by the Vidly Ridge, considered one of the most magnificent ridges in the Tatras.
- The first documented ascent of Kežmarský štít was made by David Frölich, a student from Kežmarok, in 1615. The first winter ascent was achieved by Swiss Günter Oskar Dyhrenfurth and German Alfred Martin on March 8, 1906.
- Please remember that in the Slovak part of the Tatras, walking off designated trails is generally prohibited and punishable by fines. Due to the small number of park rangers, the probability is not high, but it always exists.
Tatranské Matliare – Skalnatá chata
We leave Kraków around 7:00 AM. Quite late, but it’s currently the end of June and the longest days of the year. So there’s an excuse to exceptionally head to the Tatras fairly well-rested :D. Shortly before 9:00 AM, we stop at the parking lot in Tatranské Matliare, at the start of the blue hiking trail. It’s likely because of the late hour, but the parking lot is already very crowded. The attendant directs us to a free spot and charges 10 euros for the pleasure.
We begin the trekking at an altitude of approximately 900 m. From the parking lot, we take the blue hiking trail but turn left just a few minutes later, changing to the yellow markings. We are now walking on a flat and wide educational path leading through a dense forest. About 200 meters from the trail junction, we emerge onto a vast meadow with a large hotel complex called “Hutník.” Then, after covering about a kilometer of forest section, more buildings appear: the Grand Hotel in Tatranská Lomnica and a dilapidated shack that turns out to be a remnant of the former lower station of the cable car to Skalnaté pleso.
At this point, we change to the green trail and finally begin the actual ascent. For about a kilometer, we walk along a forest dirt road until we reach the upper station of the Buková hora chairlift. The green trail traverses the cleared strip of the ski slope and continues along an asphalt road. Signs painted on it inform us that for safety reasons, we should walk on the right side of the road. The left is reserved for people coming down the mountain on bicycles or scooters. The climb up the asphalt road is not particularly demanding. The current weather poses a greater difficulty: it is dreadfully stifling!
After walking about 4.5 kilometers, we reach the intermediate station building of the gondola lift (approx. 1,173 m). The “Start” restaurant operates there, belonging to the Slovak company Tatry Mountain Resorts (owner of the ski resort in Tatranská Lomnica or on Chopok). Interestingly, the name of the facility is not accidental. The restaurant stands in the place where, at the beginning of the 20th century, the start of a large toboggan and bobsleigh track was located. The use of the facility was completely discontinued only in 2004.
Beyond the restaurant, the asphalt road gives way to stones, and we begin a tedious ascent up the ski slope, along the gondola lift line. As we gain more elevation, the view of the Low Tatras materializes behind our backs, along with… a very low-hanging cloud. I look at it in disbelief. Can you believe that just yesterday all forecasts predicted full sun for today? The green trail from the Start restaurant to Skalnatá chata turns out to be wide and comfortable, but at the same time quite steep. In two kilometers, we have to overcome about 600 meters of elevation difference here. Most of the time, the trail leads through open areas, only to disappear briefly between trees in the upper parts.
Shortly before 11:00 AM, we arrive at the small Skalnatá chata (1,751 m). At this altitude, there are no views at all, total whiteout – so much for the promised sun. In the hut, we eat a second breakfast and wonder what to do next. That’s when the thought first occurs to me: maybe instead of worrying about the big cloud, we can climb above it today?
Skalnatá chata – Nižné sedlo pod Svišťovkou
From Skalnatá chata, we continue our trip along the red hiking trail – the Tatra Magistrale. Just 300 meters after leaving the hut, we arrive at Skalnaté pleso. It’s crowded with people here. No wonder, as we are in one of the most popular places in the Slovak Tatras. The lake is full of water today, which hasn’t been a given in recent years. Due to climate change and human activity, Skalnaté pleso began to dry out periodically. The climax was November 2, 2021, when the lake disappeared completely.
The large number of tourists at Skalnaté pleso doesn’t come from nowhere. Zaraz by the lake, there is a large building with a restaurant, a mountain hotel, and the transfer platform for the cable car to Lomnický štít. Towering over Skalnaté pleso is the characteristic building of the astronomical observatory, built in the years 1940 – 1943.
From Skalnaté pleso, we continue following the red-marked Tatra Magistrale towards Nižné sedlo pod Svišťovkou (2,023 m). Our route now leads along a carefully laid stone walkway. We cover the initial stage of the trail surrounded by dwarf mountain pine. To the left, we have a view of the lower parts of Skalnatá dolina. As we gain altitude, the dwarf pine gradually gives way to rock lichens. The trail traverses the stony slope of Huncovský štít and then crosses the small Huncovská dolina. On clear days, the route offers an interesting view of Dolina Kežmarskej bielej vody and the ridge of the Belianske Tatras.
The section is fairly gentle, so we cover it very efficiently. In three kilometers of distance, we gain only 300 meters of elevation, and it gets steeper only shortly before Nižné sedlo pod Svišťovkou. The density of people on the trail is much higher than usually in the Slovak mountains due to the nearby cable car. Oh well, we constantly have to overtake someone ;-).
From Nižné sedlo pod Svišťovkou (2,023 m), we climb the nearby peak – Veľká Svišťovka (2,038 m). This summit is popular among tourists. This time luck is on our side: the cloud partially breaks, revealing a pleasant view of the intensely green valley and the Belianske Tatras ridge. On Veľká Svišťovka, we take a short food break. We need to recharge; the summit approach starts soon!
Off-trail stage: Nižné sedlo pod Svišťovkou – Kežmarský štít
A few minutes before 1:00 PM, we begin the most exciting part of our trip – the off-trail section from Nižné sedlo pod Svišťovkou to Kežmarský štít. The route is about 1.5 kilometers long and requires overcoming 550 meters of elevation difference. According to the Great Crown of the Tatras guide by Andrzej Marcisz, the difficulty of the variant is rated at I/II on the Tatra scale.
On the initial fragment of the approach, we climb the non-prominent Rakuská kopa, and then descend to Rakuská priehyba. For the first kilometer after leaving the trail, the ridge rises fairly gently and does not pose major navigational problems. The path is clearly visible and only disappears occasionally during crossings through larger boulder fields.
About half an hour after leaving the pass, roughly at an altitude of 2,200 m, the last patches of grass disappear, and the ridge becomes significantly steeper. We begin a very pleasant and satisfying scramble. A particularly interesting moment is a fragment of the exposed ridge. The most demanding section is a small rock wall (I/II rating, approx. 2,250 m), for which basic climbing skills will be useful.
The final fragment of the ridge approach leads through a large boulder field. You won’t find a path at this stage – each of us chooses variants on the fly. In my subjective opinion, the approach requires vigilance and concentration, but it is not difficult. Navigationally, the route doesn’t pose problems – you just have to go up. However, climbing through a tangle of large granite blocks is much more time-consuming than walking a standard trail.
Stone by stone, boulder by boulder… and we have it! Around 2:30 PM, we summit Malý Kežmarský štít (2,513 m). And here the magic begins. We emerge above the cloud and enjoy the incredible view of a feathery carpet. From Malý Kežmarský štít, we are just a stone’s throw away from our main goal. A final few moves… and we are there! Around 2:45 PM, we summit Kežmarský štít (2,558 m)!
Under ideal weather conditions, the peak offers an interesting panorama of nearby Lomnický štít and the Vidly Ridge. For us, these points are obscured today, but we have no reason to complain. The scramble up Kežmarský štít turned out to be a fantastic adventure, and the massive cloud carpet makes an incredible impression on me.
Return to Tatranské Matliare via Chata pri Zelenom plese
Descending back to Rakuská priehyba also takes us about an hour and a half. We return to the red-marked Tatra Magistrale towards Chata pri Zelenom plese. We descend along a wide path into the valley. It gets more difficult only briefly, at an altitude of approximately 1,700 m, where the trail becomes steeper and has been secured with chains. Despite the darkening clouds, the valley looks magnificent.
We arrive at Zelené pleso (1,545 m) around 6:30 PM. It is one of the most beautiful moraine lakes in the Tatras, known for its turquoise water. With good visibility, one can admire the 900-meter southern face of Malý Kežmarský štít.
Taking advantage of the long day, we have a short rest in the hut. Next, we take the yellow hiking trail running along the bottom of the valley. After about six kilometers, we turn right following the blue markings. We walk another three kilometers along a forest path and reach Tatranské Matliare around 9:00 PM. Only our car remained in the parking lot ;-).
Trip date: June 23, 2024
Trip statistics: 24 km, 1,680 meters elevation difference
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Trip map
Bibliography
- Marcisz Andrzej, Wielka Korona Tatr, Bezdroża Publishing, 2nd Edition, 2021
- Nyka Józef, Nyczanka Monika, Tatry Słowackie, Trawers Publishing, 12th Edition, Latchorzew 2022.
