Hochgolling (2 862 m) is the highest peak of the Schladminger Alpen group and of the entire Niedere Tauern range, which forms part of the Central Alps. The summit lies in central Austria, on the border between two federal states: Styria and Salzburg. Due to its considerable elevation, reaching the top is a demanding physical challenge, although it does not present major technical difficulties. In good weather, Hochgolling offers a magnificent panorama of the nearby Dachstein massif as well as the majestic High Tauern. Join me for a trip report from the ascent of Hochgolling starting at the Wilde Wasser parking area!
Table of contents
- How did the idea of Hochgolling come about?
- Hochgolling – the trail from the Wilde Wasser parking lot
- Gollinghütte and Gollingwinkel
- Hochgolling – ascent from Gollingwinkel
- Hike map
How did the idea of Hochgolling come about?
The idea of climbing Hochgolling was born completely spontaneously. It was the first day of August, our first evening at a campsite in Ramsau am Dachstein. Our original plans involved heading into the Dachstein massif, specifically tackling the IRG2 via ferrata and summiting Großer Koppenkarstein. As usual, we checked the weather forecast — and were surprised. The forecast had changed to something far less favorable. The prospect of heavy rain (or, worse, a thunderstorm!) on a via ferrata was definitely not appealing. So we opened the ever-reliable maps.cz and reassessed our plans. The conclusion was simple: no climbing that day. Instead, we opted for an intense trek to the highest peak of the Niedere Tauern — Hochgolling.
Hochgolling – the trail from the Wilde Wasser parking lot
On August 2nd we woke up early — 6:00 a.m., a quick coffee, breakfast, and it was time to pack up and get into the car. We drove to Schladming, a town well known for hosting annual Alpine Ski World Cup events, and headed for the Wilde Wasser parking lot. The main drawback of this option is the rather steep fee of 11 euros to access the road leading there (price as of August 2022). On the other hand, the parking area is spacious, almost completely empty in the early morning, and located directly next to hiking trails. The parking lot sits at an elevation of 1,080 m, and we set off a few minutes after 8:00 a.m. The weather was indeed far from ideal — foggy, damp, and quite cold.
The trail from the parking lot to the Gollinghütte turns out to be very pleasant and well prepared. It leads through a wide valley, right next to a roaring stream, among green meadows with lazily grazing cows. In short: idyllic. Over the first four kilometers the elevation gain is rather gentle; only the final section becomes noticeably steeper. The stream that accompanies us along the way drops here from a several-meter-high ledge, forming a waterfall clearly visible from the trail.
Gollinghütte and Gollingwinkel
We reach the Gollinghütte, located at 1,642 m, around 9:30 a.m. Here we face our first dilemma — the weather shows no intention of improving. Low clouds, thickening fog… We continue anyway, but just a few minutes later our morale drops again as it starts to rain. Well, we’re not made of sugar. We keep going, and suddenly… in the dense fog, the silhouette of a black horse appears on a rock. Believe it or not, under these conditions it looks genuinely eerie. Fortunately, it quickly turns out that the horse is no ominous omen, just a member of a grazing herd. Fifteen minutes after leaving the hut, we arrive at the flat valley of Gollingwinkel, situated at around 1,700 m. From here begins the rocky and steep ascent to Hochgolling. The weather remains dreadful, so after a short discussion we decide to retreat — sometimes you just can’t force it.
We return to the hut with a quickly revised plan for the day. Two trails start from here — one to Hochgolling, the other to a peak called Greifenberg (2,618 m). On the map it looks promising, with numerous moraine lakes below it — could it be as beautiful as the famous Five Ponds Valley? More importantly, however, the area around our new objective looks noticeably better, with less cloud cover and more hopeful conditions. Still, we soon decide to retreat once again, as ominous clouds rapidly form above Greifenberg as well.
Within the span of an hour, we find ourselves at the hut for the third time. We are already coming to terms with the thought that no summit will be reached that day and that it’s time to head back to the car. And then — a true miracle happens. Right before our eyes, literally within seconds, the fog parts, a massive cloud dissolves, and the sun begins to shine over the Niedere Tauern. Hochgolling reveals itself in all its glory! Everyone knows that mountain weather is unpredictable, but I have never experienced such a sudden, almost magical change. No hesitation — a gift like this must be used. We decide it’s time for another attempt at Hochgolling.
A quick walk and we are back in Gollingwinkel, this time in a completely different setting. The flat, intensely green valley, surrounded by monumental mountains, makes an incredible impression on us — unanimously, we consider it one of the most beautiful places we have ever visited during our mountain wanderings.
Hochgolling – ascent from Gollingwinkel
Thus, at around 11:00 a.m., we begin the proper ascent through a rocky gully. The trail turns out to be comfortable underfoot, yet at the same time very steep, laborious, and visually monotonous, which brings to mind our ascent of Rysy from the Polish side. Unfortunately, the weather changes once again — ominous clouds are gathering over Hochgolling for the second time. We need to hurry; after all, we are not turning back again!
A few minutes after noon, we reach the Gollingscharte Pass (2,325 m a.s.l.), which separates Hochgolling from Zwerfenberg (2,642 m a.s.l.). This is where, for the first time, a vast panorama opens up to the west — a view that will accompany us all the way to the summit. A short break at the pass, a second breakfast, and off we go! A 500-meter elevation gain won’t do itself.
After leaving the pass, we continue our arduous gain in elevation, still following a rocky, well-marked path. Doubts arise only when we reach a junction (at approximately 2,630 m a.s.l.). Here we have a choice between the historic route or a ridge variant marked with the note “nur für Geübte” (“for experienced hikers only”). After a brief moment of hesitation, we choose the ridge route (perhaps because we lacked reception to check the meaning of the word “Geübte”). Shortly after the junction, the route indeed becomes significantly more demanding. The terrain turns rocky — finally, we get a chance to use our hands as well. The trail quickly leads us onto the ridge and follows it all the way to the summit. We find ourselves in an interesting situation: to the left, dense fog obscures any view, while to the right, a fully exposed panorama opens up… as if Hochgolling itself were preventing the low-hanging cloud from moving further west. I would compare the difficulty of this ridge section to Orla Perć (except that there are no artificial aids here). Extra caution is definitely required, and I would not recommend this section to those who are uncomfortable with exposure.
At a certain point, at an altitude of 2,740 m a.s.l., after completing about two-thirds of the ridge section, we encounter a large notch — in order to bypass it, we need to descend slightly. Unfortunately, this is where our navigation skills fail us — instead of returning to the ridge, we end up on a very steep slope covered with small, loose stones. For a moment we push forward, traversing the slope, but we quickly realize that we are definitely no longer on the trail. Luckily, slightly below us, we spot the historic variant (i.e. the easier one) and carefully make our way toward it. Attempting to regain the ridge makes little sense at this point, so we continue the rest of the route via the easier option. We remain on a rocky path for a short while longer, but soon jump back onto solid rock again. In places, the use of hands is required, but overall the difficulty level does not exceed what one might encounter on marked trails in the Tatra Mountains.
We reach the summit of Hochgolling at 1:45 p.m. In good weather, it is an excellent viewpoint — from here, one can admire not only the surrounding Niedere Tauern, but also the glaciers of the High Tauern and, of course, the nearby Dachstein massif. Unfortunately, we do not have the best conditions, but there is no point in complaining — on one side, a massive cloud still lingers, while on the other, a magnificent panorama opens up toward the west. And of course, there is the satisfaction! Another very high mountain joins our collection!
A short rest, the obligatory photo with the summit cross, and we head back down along exactly the same route we used to ascend. The ridge route tempts us (this time without getting lost), but after another look at the sky, we opt for the historic variant. Once again, we pass the saddle, the beautiful Gollingwinkel valley with its small herd of horses, the mountain hut (for the fourth time that day), and cow-filled pastures. We reach the car at 5:40 p.m. — very satisfied that, despite the uncertain weather, we managed to spend the day in such a wonderful way.
On the way back, we stop in the famous town of Schladming and take a short walk around the center. The town makes a very positive impression on us — well maintained, atmospheric, and most importantly — they sell delicious ice cream there!
PS. Finally, I’ll give you a perfect argument for why it’s worth carefully analyzing the map before heading into the mountains. Only after returning to Poland did I discover that the name of the Wilde Wasser parking lot (“wild water”) is no coincidence. Just 650 meters from the parking area, at an altitude of around 1,200 m a.s.l., there is an impressive waterfall — the Grosser Riesechfall, and just a short distance above it, the alpine lake Riesechsee. I suspect that had I known about this earlier, we would have gone there after the trek as well. Lesson learned for the future — do better research.
Date of the hike: August 2, 2022
Hike statistics: 25 km, 2,000 meters of elevation gain
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