Giewont is one of those mountains in Poland that needs no introduction. The famous peak majestically towers over Zakopane, distinguished by its characteristic silhouette and the 15-meter cross at its highest point. Giewont is among the most popular hiking destinations in the Tatras, surpassed only by Kasprowy Wierch and Morskie Oko (and perhaps recently by Rysy?). It’s true that almost everything has already been written about the Sleeping Knight. Hundreds of articles, poems, and reports have been created about this famous mountain with a cross! Yet, I decided to add my own little contribution, believing that a quality blog should not forget the “classics,” on which many of us built our mountain passion. So, welcome to my post about Giewont, where I’ll describe the ascent from Dolina Małej Łąki and the descent along the red trail to Grzybowiec Pass. I will also mention the blue trail, which is the approach from the Kuźnice side.
Table of contents
- Why Giewont?
- Dolina Małej Łąki and Wielka Polana Małołącka
- Ascent to Wyżnia Kondracka Pass
- Giewont – Chains on the Trail
- Giewont Summit – Cross and Views
- Red Trail via Grzybowiec Pass
- Hike Map
- Blue Trail via Dolina Kondratowa
- Bibliography
Why Giewont?
I first visited Giewont on August 19, 2019, at the very beginning of my mountain passion. I went partly out of curiosity, partly out of a sense of duty, and partly for a rest after the previous day’s trip to Rysy (which was a major expedition for me at the time). At the summit dome of Giewont, I witnessed scenes reminiscent of Dante’s Inferno: crowds panicked, clinging tightly to a single chain, and sliding in sneakers on polished rock. My patriotic duty was checked off, but I had no intention of returning to the Sleeping Knight.
Interestingly, just three days after my visit, the mountain experienced its deadliest tragedy. On August 22, 2019, a storm caught about 200 hikers at the summit dome. A lightning strike hit near the cross, destroying the trail and breaking the chains. Four people died (including two children), and about 150 were injured.
Six years later, the weather forecast promised a nice November Sunday. After taking an important exam on Saturday, I wanted to spend the second day of the weekend on the trail. The last few days had been exhausting, so the hike had to be fairly easy – more of a relaxed walk than a strenuous push. Additionally, my companion Ada would be joining me, and this would be her last trek before ACL reconstruction surgery. Therefore, we had to choose a route that wouldn’t overstrain her knee. And then the thought came… maybe… why not return to that ill-fated Giewont? In November, the Tatras are less crowded, so perhaps we could see this mountain from a different perspective.
As we decided, so we did. We chose the yellow trail through Dolina Małej Łąki for the ascent. For the descent, we would take the red trail to Grzybowiec Pass, considered the most beautiful and interesting route on Giewont. The Sleeping Knight, the prodigal son, returns!
Dolina Małej Łąki and Wielka Polana Małołącka
At 8:30 a.m., we arrive at the paid “Dolina Małej Łąki – Giewont” parking lot, located right by provincial road 958 (approx. 930 m a.s.l.). Despite the relatively late hour and the sunny Sunday, the lot is almost completely empty. Still, the parking attendant in a reflective vest rises from his chair and points me to a spot. I get out of the car and go to pay, but he doesn’t accept money and directs me to the nearby parking meter.
At the entrance to Dolina Małej Łąki, there is another fee – the Tatra National Park entrance point [2025 fees: 11 PLN for an adult, 5.5 PLN for a reduced ticket]. We then take the yellow trail – a wide path along the Małołącki Stream. For the next 1.5 km, we walk through a charming little valley surrounded by dense montane forest. Late-autumn scenery can often feel gloomy, but this morning in the Tatras is truly pleasant. The slope is gentle – over the two kilometers from the parking lot to the edge of Wielka Polana Małołącka, we gain only about 230 meters of elevation.
The 800-meter-long Wielka Polana Małołącka (1,170 – 1,200 m a.s.l.) is considered by many to be the most beautiful of the Tatra meadows. Pastoral traditions were maintained here for hundreds of years – from the late 16th century until the 1960s. Ownership was highly fragmented – to acquire the entire meadow, the Tatra National Park had to purchase or expropriate parcels from over 20 highlanders! Like many post-pasture areas, Wielka Polana Małołącka is gradually becoming overgrown.
At the edge of the meadow, there are tables and benches – a perfect spot for a second breakfast. Holding a coffee in one hand and a sandwich in the other, you can admire the vast meadow, bordered on the left by Giewont’s slope and on the right by the wall of Wielka Turnia. Interestingly, thousands of years ago, the site of today’s Wielka Polana Małołącka was a deep glacial lake. I can imagine how stunning it must have looked. Additionally, Dolina Małej Łąki is the smallest of the main Tatra valleys (i.e., valleys stretching from the main ridge to the foothills).
Before the hike, I read that the yellow trail through Dolina Małej Łąki, while very charming, is the least chosen route to Giewont. My own experience confirms this. Indeed, despite a sunny Sunday, there are very few people on the trail. I can’t remember the last time I enjoyed the beauty of the Polish Tatras in such peace.
Ascent to Wyżnia Kondracka Pass
About one kilometer from leaving Wielka Polana Małołącka, at roughly 1,300 m a.s.l., the ascent becomes significantly steeper. Finally, we are in the high mountains! The path initially winds through montane forest, but after a few minutes, it opens up to exposed terrain. Charming views of nearby peaks appear before us. The yellow trail passes a narrow gap between the rocky massifs of Siodłowa Turnia and Mnich Małołącki. This section, called Świstówka, is considered by the classic Nyka guide as the best-formed of the three-tiered glacial cirques of Dolina Małej Łąki. The path is generally in very good condition – only occasionally loose or slightly worn.
Over a distance of 1.5 kilometers, we climb more than 400 meters in elevation. The path constantly ascends, overcoming successive steps of the higher parts of Dolina Małej Łąki. On the left, we can already see the main goal of our hike – Giewont with its massive iron cross. At around 1,650 m a.s.l., we enter a dense zone of mountain pine. After several minutes, we reach the Kondracka Pass (1,725 m a.s.l.), which separates the Giewont massif from the main ridge of the Western Tatras. Here we encounter more hikers, mainly coming from the opposite side via the popular blue trail from Kuźnice through Dolina Kondratowa.
At the pass, we find a spot sheltered from the wind and unpack another round of sandwiches. It’s already clear that we chose the perfect goal for today. While thick clouds hover over the main ridge, the sky above Giewont is completely clear. That’s the magic of the mountains :D. From Kondracka Pass, we follow the blue signs, which in a few minutes lead us to the Wyżnia Kondracka Pass (1,765 m a.s.l.).
Giewont – Chains on the Trail
No matter which route you choose, the final section to Giewont is a short stretch of the blue trail from Wyżnia Kondracka Pass. This part is quite steep – over 300 meters, we gain 120 meters in elevation. Nevertheless, a fit hiker can complete this final ascent in about 20 minutes. That is… 20 minutes assuming there isn’t a huge queue of people :D.
Just before the summit, at around 1,840 m a.s.l., the blue trail splits into two one-way lanes – one for ascent, the other for descent. The final meters of elevation are covered on very simple rocky terrain. There are no technical difficulties here, but in summer, this is exactly where the longest lines form. Luckily, today there are few people, allowing us to pass this critical section quickly and smoothly.
The last rocky section is equipped with several chains (a good rule: only one person at a time on a chain!). The trail itself isn’t difficult, but I consider the chains absolutely justified. Due to heavy tourist traffic, the rocks on both the ascent and descent are extremely polished. Seriously! Even with good tread on my shoes, I sometimes felt like I was on an ice rink at Giewont’s summit dome.
Giewont Summit – Cross and Views
We reach the summit of Giewont a few minutes past noon. First, we admire the massive iron cross. The structure is 17.5 meters tall (including a 2.5-meter base), consists of 400 elements, and weighs almost 2 tons. The cross was erected in 1901 on the initiative of the local parish priest, Fr. Kaszelewski. I wonder if the good priest realized that his idea would become the most recognizable symbol of Polish mountains? The iron structure was entered into the register of monuments in 2007, as confirmed by the attached plaque.
Nearby, I hear a hiker enthusiastically telling her companion that the ascent to Giewont was easy and now she will definitely go to Rysy. Someone opened a Żubr beer on the summit, another climbed almost naked. Generally, though, it’s quite calm today. The summit dome isn’t overcrowded, and we are happy to take advantage of this.
From Giewont, we enjoy pleasant views to the north: Sarnia Skała, the outlet of Dolina Strążyska, the entire town of Zakopane, and the popular Gubałówka. The panorama is particularly impressive because the summit drops steeply in this direction, visible from most Zakopane homes. Many climbing routes were once established here, but today mountaineering is strictly prohibited by Tatra National Park regulations. Similarly, the ridge of the neighboring Długi Giewont (the “torso and legs” of the Sleeping Knight) is closed to tourists. The two peaks are separated by Szczerba Pass, also inaccessible to the average hiker.
Looking south, on the left we can see dozens of High Tatras peaks, including the most prominent – Świnica and Krivan. In the foreground are two nearby giants – Kopa Kondracka and Małołączniak. To the right, the western parts of the Western Tatras with the striking Rohacs can be seen. Although visibility isn’t perfect today, there is no reason to complain. The combination of clouds, sun, and wind creates a breathtaking spectacle over the main ridge. We find a comfortable spot and spend over half an hour simply observing. Krywań’s pointed summit emerges from behind the clouds, then vanishes, accompanied by other granite giants of the High Tatras. I admit – I’m thrilled! Who would have thought that even on the modest Giewont one could feel so much mountain satisfaction?
Red Trail via Grzybowiec Pass
From the summit of Giewont, we descend back to Wyżnia Kondracka Pass. At this point, we turn right – onto the red trail. We now start the route considered the most beautiful way to reach the Sleeping Knight. And indeed – the trail here is exceptionally scenic. Running along the southern slopes of Giewont, a comfortable path leads to Siodło Pass (1,630 m a.s.l.), located between Siodłowa Turnia and Mały Giewont. On clear days, the trail offers fantastic views of the massive slope of Małołączniak. It’s also worth glancing back, as the famous cross can be seen beautifully from the path :D.
Beyond Siodło Pass, the trail changes direction, circling the Giewont massif from the west. Walking here is very pleasant – on one side, the majestic wall of the massif, on the other, the view of Wielka Polana Małołącka. The path is very comfortable – practically a stone-paved walkway along most of its length. We pass barely two small rocky sections. They aren’t difficult, but require a bit of focus. And… very few people! Occasionally we meet other hikers, but for the most part, it’s really peaceful here.
About a kilometer after leaving Wyżnia Kondracka Pass, the trail enters an upper montane forest. The vegetation isn’t too dense, so from time to time, fragments of the charming panorama peek through. After a pleasant walk of several minutes, we reach Grzybowiec Pass (1,311 m a.s.l.). Here we take a short break, finishing off the remaining snacks in our backpacks.
The entire section from Wyżnia Kondracka Pass to Grzybowiec Pass is 2.2 kilometers and descends 450 meters in elevation. The path isn’t overly demanding, but for those not used to mountain walking, it may pose some challenges. Importantly, the red trail runs largely along steep slopes where avalanches are common in winter. For this reason, this section is closed annually from December 1 to May 15.
At Grzybowiec Pass, most hikers continue along the red trail, descending into Dolina Strążyska. For those wanting more, it’s easy to extend the trek to Siklawica or Sarnia Skała. We, however, turn left onto the black trail, part of the Ścieżka nad Reglami. After almost a kilometer, we return to the edge of Wielka Polana Małołącka. From there, we continue as we began – along the yellow trail by the Małołącki Stream, reaching the parking lot around 3:30 PM, very satisfied with our shared Sunday hike :D.
Date of the hike: November 16, 2025
Hike statistics: 12 km; 950 meters of elevation gain
Hike Map
Blue Trail via Dolina Kondratowa
Kalatówki
For the full picture, it’s worth mentioning the blue trail, which ascends to Kondracka Pass from the east. This route is arguably the most popular way to reach Giewont.
The trail starts in Kuźnice, the highest district of Zakopane. Once home to ironworks, today it’s the largest tourist center under the Tatras. Besides the blue trail to Giewont, Kuźnice is the starting point for the green trail to Kasprowy Wierch, the blue and yellow trails to Hala Gąsienicowa, and the green trail to Nosal. Most importantly, the lower station of the Kasprowy Wierch cable car is here – extremely popular both in summer and winter.
The blue trail initially follows a slightly inclined paved road. After two kilometers through dense upper montane forest, we reach the PTTK mountain hotel (1,198 m a.s.l.). Built in 1938 for the following year’s World Ski Championships in Zakopane, I must admit I’m not a big fan. In my opinion, it looks heavy and out of place in its surroundings. Beyond functioning as a hotel, the building also houses a restaurant, a gym, a sauna, and a ski equipment storage facility.
The PTTK mountain hotel stands on the edge of the charming Kalatówki clearing. Formerly used for pasturing, today it hosts cultural grazing only. Kalatówki also hosted Poland’s first ski center. Already at the beginning of the 20th century, skiing competitions were organized here, and a small ski jump was built. With good snow conditions (increasingly rare), a short T-bar lift and a ski kindergarten operate here.
Dolina Kondratowa
Beyond Kalatówki clearing, the blue trail once again enters dense forest, following a comfortable, evenly paved path. The walk is therefore not difficult, but very pleasant. After about 1.5 kilometers, the vegetation thins out again, and we arrive at the charming Kondratowa Clearing with the PTTK mountain shelter (1,333 m a.s.l.). The first tourist shelters here were built in the early 20th century, coinciding with the growing popularity of skiing in the Tatras. Kondratowa even had a ski jump with a wooden in-run! The current shelter was built in the 1930s and recently underwent a major renovation between 2023 and 2025.
Kondratowa Clearing is above all an incredibly idyllic place. Stunning views of the main Tatras ridge unfold here, and the meadow vegetation seems to embrace and delight, significantly lifting one’s mood. In summer, the pink fields of fireweed (Epilobium angustifolium) are especially striking.
After leaving Kondratowa Clearing, the terrain steepens significantly. The section to Kondracka Pass requires climbing nearly 400 meters of elevation over less than 2 kilometers. The path remains very comfortable, but the ascent can feel laborious and slightly tiring. Approaching from Kondratowa Clearing, Giewont slopes are on the right, with views of nearby peaks of the main Western Tatras ridge on the left. In this way, after five kilometers from Kuźnice, we reach Kondracka Pass. From there, continuing along the blue trail, we can reach the summit of Giewont.
Hike statistics: 5.7 km; 860 meters of elevation gain [one way]
Giewont itself makes an excellent hiking destination, but it can easily be combined with other nearby peaks. Many hikers extend their trip from Giewont to nearby Kopa Kondracka, or even further to the Red Peaks (Czerwone Wierchy). Giewont can also be linked with Kasprowy Wierch or Sarnia Skała, and for those in good shape – even Świnica or Kościelec.
Thank you for taking the time to read my post! If you want to stay up to date with new content, follow me on Facebook and Instagram! I appreciate every like, comment, and share. If you find my content valuable and want to support me, feel free to buy me a virtual coffee on buycoffee.to.
Map of the Dolina Kondratowa Route
Bibliography
- Nyka J., Nyczanka M, Polish Tatras, 22nd edition, Latchorzew 2020.
