Epidaurus – The Most Magnificent Theatre of Ancient Greece

Epidaurus is one of the most important and popular archaeological sites in the Peloponnese. It is primarily known for the largest theatre in the Greek world, which boasts remarkable acoustics and could accommodate up to 12,000 spectators. In ancient times, Epidaurus was renowned as a sanctuary of Asclepius, the god of health and medicine. According to legend, he was the son of Apollo and the princess Coronis, receiving his medical education under the tutelage of the wise centaur Chiron. The myth states that one day, a snake crawled up to Asclepius. Driven by a simple human instinct, the young man killed the reptile. Suddenly, another snake crawled up to the dead animal, offering it an herb with unknown properties. Before the astonished eyes of Asclepius, the snake came back to life and left the scene. In this way, Asclepius learned how to restore the sick to life. This did not please Hades, who soon complained to Zeus about the dwindling number of his subjects. The king of the gods became concerned and struck the gifted physician with a lightning bolt. At Apollo’s request, Asclepius was placed among the stars, creating the constellation Ophiuchus in the firmament.

The temple priests were primarily involved in healing, and among the methods of the time, fasting, medicinal baths, and inducing a hypnotic sleep in the sick reigned supreme. The attribute of Asclepius – a snake coiled around a staff – remains a symbol of medical professions to this day, visible on many hospitals, clinics, and pharmacies around the world. I invite you to join my report from visiting the remnants of this ancient sanctuary!

Table of Contents

• Getting to Epidaurus and Admission Tickets
• The Theatre of Epidaurus
• Sanctuary of Asclepius in Epidaurus
• The Town of Epidaurus

Getting to Epidaurus and Admission Tickets

It is currently the penultimate day of my road trip across the most important attractions of Greece. The first part of the day was spent on an excursion to Kyllini (2,376 m a.s.l.), the second-highest peak in the Peloponnese and the mythical birthplace of the god Hermes. Shortly before 2:00 PM, I get into the car and set a course for the next destination of my Greek vacation – the archaeological site at Epidaurus. To save time, I intend to buy lunch “on the go” at one of the fast-food outlets along the road. Unfortunately, in this regard, a bitter disappointment awaits me. On the entire 100-kilometer stretch of the highway, there is not a single place offering any hot meals for drivers. My stomach is growling, but I can hardly believe it… In Poland, highways are teeming with restaurants, gas stations, and motels.

Hungry or not, I finally arrive at the large parking lot in Epidaurus before 4:00 PM. A standard entrance ticket to the archaeological site costs 20 euros, and a reduced ticket (for people over 65) costs 10 euros. Admission is free for all students who are citizens of the European Union under 25 and for everyone under 18. What a pity that I was already 26 when I visited Greece… You can check online tickets and current opening hours of the site on the official website for Greek attractions.

The Sanctuary of Asclepius at Epidaurus is listed as a UNESCO World Heritage site. Exploring the entire site takes about 60–120 minutes.

The Theatre of Epidaurus

Immediately after entering the archaeological site, I head to its greatest attraction – the huge amphitheatre. The structure is considered the most magnificent object of its kind in all of Hellas. It is characterized by significant size, excellent acoustics, and a fantastic appearance. The theatre was built in the 4th century BC (around 340–300 BC) according to the design of the architect Polykleitos the Younger. With a maximum capacity of 13,000–14,000 spectators, the theatre was a venue for many famous performances and concerts, organized for the delight of pilgrims and patients arriving at the sanctuary of Asclepius. Large-scale excavations at Epidaurus began in the late 19th century. Thanks to the intricate work of archaeologists and conservators, the theatre can be admired today in excellent, almost unchanged form. What’s more, performances, concerts, and other cultural events are still held there from time to time.

The theatre’s structure is based on three key parts: the auditorium, the orchestra, and the skene. The auditorium (the seating area) is divided horizontally into two uneven sections (lower and upper) by a corridor (diazoma). The lower part is divided into 12 sections, and the upper into 22. To achieve a better effect, the seating was constructed in such a way that the upper part is tilted at a higher angle than the lower part. In the lower rows of both sections, there are honorary seats (proedria).

Tourists arriving at Epidaurus often test the acoustic properties of the theatre. One member of the group stays at the bottom, the other goes to the top, trying to hear the calling of the first one. Despite the typical noise here, the sounds are often clearly audible ;).

Another element of the theatre is the orchestra – the central point of the theatre with a diameter of 20 meters. During ancient performances, the space was occupied by the chorus, which narrated, heightened emotions, and commented on the events in the play. In the middle of the area stood an altar (thymele), dedicated to the patron of the theatre – Dionysus. The whole was surrounded by an underground drainage system (euripos) covered with a stone walkway.

Behind the orchestra stood the skene (stage building). It was built in two phases – at the end of the 4th century BC and in the middle of the 2nd century BC. The two-story structure included a proscenium with a colonnade and rooms for artists. It was, therefore, an ancient backstage area where masks and costumes were changed rapidly between acts (one actor played many roles). Artists performed on the highly visible roof of the proscenium, called the logeion, which was reached by two ramps. The whole was complemented by two entrance gates.

Personally, I believe that the theatre in Epidaurus is a monument definitely worth seeing. The object actually makes a much stronger impression than other objects of this type that I had seen earlier in Delphi or Athens. The only thing I could complain about is… the price. I had the undeniable impression that for the amount of 20 euros, we get significantly less in Epidaurus than at other top archaeological sites in Greece.

Sanctuary of Asclepius in Epidaurus

After visiting the theatre, I visit the small archaeological museum. Most of the exhibits consist of fragments of sculptures and other decorations found during the excavations here. I pay special attention to the aesthetic statue of Asclepius, depicted as a bearded sage holding his inseparable attribute in his hand – a staff with a coiled snake.

Near the archaeological museum is the katagogion – the ruins of a huge building that once served as a kind of guesthouse or sanatorium. The complex was built in the 4th century BC and had as many as 160 rooms. The design was very well thought out. The building consisted of four independent sections, and the lack of communication between them allowed for the isolation of individual groups of guests, which was important, for example, in the event of infectious diseases or during periods of less traffic in the sanctuary.

Over the next few dozen minutes, I walk around the remaining part of the archaeological site in Epidaurus. Within the grounds of the former sanctuary, the ruins of more than fifty buildings dating from the 6th century BC to the 2nd century AD have been preserved. The exception is the remains of an early Christian basilica, dated to the 5th century AD. Unlike the perfectly preserved theatre, the other objects of the sanctuary have survived only in a fragmentary form. So I pass by the remains of foundations and individual stones, trying to imagine the life that once pulsed here. In the heyday of this place, plenty of healer-priests must have been bustling about among the temples, hurrying to their numerous patients.

And what therapies were in the ancient offer? They used primarily a healthy diet, ritual baths, herbal dressings, and massages. In one of the most important buildings of the sanctuary – the abaton – the sick were subjected to so-called incubation, i.e., a hypnotic, healing sleep. The nearby stadium was used to improve physical fitness, which was considered an important element of a healthy lifestyle already in ancient times. So one can say that the sanctuary of Asclepius was a complex consisting of everything that we practice today as well, simply calling it “taking care of yourself.”

The most important point of the ancient sanctuary was the temple of Asclepius, erected in the 4th century BC, today in almost complete ruin. Next to it stood a circular tholos of mysterious purpose, and the aforementioned abaton. Walking around the site, it is also worth paying attention to the hestiatorion – the ancient banquet hall, the temple of Artemis, baths, a gymnasion (public sports center), a stadium with the remains of the stands, and an early Christian basilica from the 5th century BC.

The Town of Epidaurus

Just like on the Peloponnesian highway, in the sanctuary, I find no opportunity for a quick meal. After finishing the tour, I drive to the neighboring Palaia Epidavros, a town located on the Saronic Gulf. Only there do I manage to hunt down a delicious gyros :D. After a short walk, I leave the town and begin the return trip to Athens. For a long time, I drive along the picturesque road no. EO10 with fantastic views of the bay and the cliffs falling into it. I have the impression that Greece is simply wonderful. If only I could, I would like to drive like this and admire this country for months… After about two hours spent on the road, I get back to my car rental in Athens. Then I turn in the car, thus ending my great Greek road trip. It was beautiful, I recommend it to everyone!

Date of visit: October 25, 2025

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