As is often the case with many beautiful things in life, I ended up in Jotunheimen quite by accident. In May 2024, I received an offer to join a close-knit group planning a several-day trek through this wild Norwegian mountain range. It would have been a sin to miss such an opportunity! The following weeks flew by as we waited for the longed-for vacation and completed our gear. On the evening of July 19, our nine-person crew flew to Oslo. The very next day, at exactly 8:05 a.m., we boarded a Nor-Way Bussekspress coach, which took us from the Norwegian capital to Gjendesheim at the foot of the Jotunheimen mountains. I invite you to read an account of the first day of the expedition, during which we hiked the popular Besseggen ridge and climbed our first Norwegian two-thousander – Besshøe.
I also invite you to read a general post about Jotunheimen, in which I devote more attention to the geography, history, and practical information about traveling in this mountain range.
Lake Gjende (983 m)
The bus drops us off by Lake Gjende around 1:00 p.m. We leisurely pull our large backpacks out of the luggage compartment and take our first proper look around. It is beautiful! Lake Gjende, like much of Jotunheimen National Park, was formed by glacial erosion during the last Ice Age. Its characteristic feature is its turquoise color, caused by rock flour carried into the lake by the Muru River. Gjende is surrounded by majestic mountains whose monumental walls descend directly into the surface of the lake. The elevation of the surrounding peaks far exceeds 2,000 m a.s.l., while the lake itself lies at 983 m a.s.l.
On the shores of Lake Gjende stands the Gjendesheim mountain lodge, established by the Norwegian Trekking Association as early as 1878. The facility is quite large, offering 185 beds in double or four-person rooms. According to the official website, Gjendesheim is the most frequently visited mountain lodge north of the Alps. Is that really the case? I dare to doubt it. With all due respect to Gjendesheim, the place did not appear even half as busy as, for example, our Morskie Oko hut or the Five Ponds Valley shelter in the Tatra Mountains. Directly by Lake Gjende there is also a restaurant where you can sample traditional Norwegian cinnamon buns, use a free restroom, and buy a souvenir. Additionally, near Gjendesheim there is a small pier from which you can take a ferry to the other mountain lodges on Lake Gjende: Memurubu and Gjendebu.
The Besseggen Ridge
At a quarter to 2:00 p.m., we finally set off on our hike! Our first goal is the trail along the Besseggen ridge, considered one of the most beautiful—and certainly the most popular—treks in this part of Europe. In fact, if you type “Jotunheimen” into Google, the first thing you will see are panoramic photos taken right along this route. And indeed. We pass quite a few people on the trail, mostly those already descending rather than climbing upward. Most of them are Norwegians, though we also exchange a cheerful “hi” with a group of fellow countrymen we meet along the way. As it later turned out, during the several-kilometer trek along the Besseggen ridge we encountered more hikers than during all the remaining seven days of our hike through Jotunheimen National Park combined.
The trail begins with a fairly steep ascent over shaped stone blocks. On the left, an incredible panorama opens up over Lake Gjende and the nearby two-thousand-meter peaks to its south. As we gain elevation, Gjendesheim shrinking below us becomes smaller and smaller, and the trail turns into a gravel path. Just a dozen or so minutes after starting the hike, taller vegetation disappears completely, giving way to grasses and low shrubs. The proper ascent to the Besseggen ridge begins at around 1,300 m a.s.l. At this point the trail briefly becomes a bit more rocky and demanding (something especially noticeable when carrying a twenty-kilogram backpack).
At an elevation of around 1,550 m a.s.l., about an hour and a half after leaving Gjendesheim, we finally reach the Besseggen ridge. Vegetation has disappeared entirely—on all sides we are surrounded only by raw, gray-brown stones. I slowly begin to understand why minimalism is such a defining feature of Scandinavian style. The outstanding aesthetic qualities of this place become apparent quite quickly, however, once we reach a rocky viewpoint located at around 1,700 m a.s.l. We decide to take a short break here to give our tired backs a moment of rest and to enjoy the incredible panorama of the turquoise Lake Gjende shimmering below. While each of us looks for a relatively comfortable stone to sit on, Martyna… pulls out a sleeping mat and begins a series of advanced stretching exercises. Well, everyone rests in their own way.
Veslfjellet (1,743 m a.s.l.) and the descent from the Besseggen ridge
From the viewpoint it is not far to Veslfjellet (1,743 m a.s.l.), the highest point of the Besseggen massif. And here a surprise awaits us: a herd of real, beautiful reindeer! For quite a while we watch in awe as these majestic animals patiently dig through the harsh ground in search of food. Sure—it is a domesticated herd, a tourist attraction—but we are still very happy to have seen reindeer live already on the first day of trekking on Norwegian soil. To fulfill my chronicler’s duty, I should add that we reach Veslfjellet about two and a half hours after leaving Gjendesheim.
After a break to admire the animals, we move on—straight across the stone desert! An incredible panorama opens up before us, one that illustrates just about every promotional brochure for trekking on Besseggen. This is, of course, the view of Lake Gjende on the left, Lake Bessvatnet on the right, and the rocky bridge separating them. In this case, words do not convey much—just look at the photo instead. It is beautiful.
The descent from the Besseggen massif is surprisingly steep and rocky. The slope is so pronounced that in many sections we need to use our hands for support. While under normal conditions the descent probably wouldn’t have impressed me much, with a nearly twenty-kilogram backpack on my back certain things simply become more difficult. Around 6:00 p.m. we reach the rocky bridge separating the turquoise waters of Gjende from the blue Bessvatnet (approx. 1,400 m a.s.l.). We all agree that this is a perfect place for a longer break and our first field dinner of the trip. We fire up the gas stove and just a few minutes later we are devouring freeze-dried meals. The views accompanying our meal are phenomenal: in full glory we can see both Besseggen and the mountain we are yet to climb—Besshøe.
Trekking along Lake Bessvatnet
Around 6:30 p.m. we set off again. A longer section now awaits us along the northern shore of Lake Bessvatnet. To be honest, it is only at this moment that I truly feel what trekking in Jotunheimen National Park is all about. This section is relatively flat, so at first glance it seems like it should be easy going. But it wasn’t. The trail was very muddy, rocky, and waterlogged, which resulted in a slow pace. We finally arrive at the foot of Besshøe just a few minutes after 8:00 p.m.
Besshøe (2,258 m a.s.l.)
We check our watches. Well… it’s late, but after all we had been talking for weeks about the long Norwegian days. So why not take advantage of them? We leave our backpacks below and, feeling light and in good spirits, head upward. The trail to Besshøe resembles a pile of scattered stones, but generally poses no navigational difficulties. The slope is not steep here, so there is no real need to use our hands. As we gain altitude, the view from the trail becomes increasingly beautiful, opening up over Lake Bessvatnet and the raw Besseggen massif.
At an elevation of roughly 1,950 m a.s.l., the route passes right next to the small cirque glacier Besshøbrean. In this way, we see Norwegian permafrost up close for the first time. Glaciers always leave an incredible impression on me: they carry a certain magic and mystery, breathe cold, inspire respect, and at the same time reveal the true power of the mountains.
We reach the summit of Besshøe (2,258 m a.s.l.) at around 9:40 p.m., and it is still completely light! The only thing missing for total happiness is a wide, unobstructed panorama. Although the weather had been excellent all day, toward the evening a fairly large cloud formed over the summit of Besshøe. Still, from time to time the view of the surrounding peaks—covered with a thick layer of permafrost—breaks through. A few “oohs” and “aahs,” and it’s time to get moving! The day may be long, but it doesn’t last forever. We set off briskly on the way back and return to Lake Bessvatnet around 11:00 p.m. Believe it or not… it’s still quite bright. The rest of our group is already waiting for us by the lake. We quickly pitch our tents, eat another portion of freeze-dried food, and fall into a blissful, well-earned sleep.
Trip date: July 20, 2024
Route statistics: 18 km, 1,700 meters of elevation gain
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